Serge Lutens Five O'Clock Au Gingembre

I wonder how things would have turned had Serge Lutens released Five O'Clock Au Gingembre in 1998 and not 2008. I have a feeling this spicy oriental tea scent (orientea?) would have been accept with a lot more enthusiasm ten years and twenty or so perfumes ago.

I think of Five O'Clock Au Gingembre as the civilized version of Arabie (which I absolutely cannot stand). In Arabie, Serge Lutens and his prophet, Christopher Sheldrake, take you by the hand touring the back alleys of an Arabian souk. You walk the narrow streets, see and touch everything- from the sublime to the grime. Your exotic tour in Gingembre is done aboard the Orient Express. You see the sights from afar and the smells get mixed with the ones of your train car. The butler brings in your tea and cookies on a silver tray, there's an endless supply of starched linens, hot water and various delicacies.

The sharp ginger note in the opening is the only part of which I'm a bit iffy. Ginger tends to do that. I love it in ELdO Like This (and in my food), but usually it's not my favorite perfumery trick. Here the top notes are quite astringent for a brief second before the familiar Lutens magic appears with its cinnamon, honey, cookies and dark chocolate. There's something reminiscent of both Rousse and Feminite de Bois, but the black smoky tea takes the perfume in a different direction and gives it its own special character.

Five O'Clock Au Gingembre has an understated elegance. It's not quite in your face as several of the classic Lutens perfumes, which might be why some were so disappointed upon its release. I'm grateful they held back the cumin and instead explored a kinder route.

Five O'Clock Au Gingembre ($120, 50ml EDP) is available everywhere they sell the Serge Lutens export line- Bergdorf, Barneys, Aedes,Luckyscent and others.

Burberry Warm Glow Natural Bronzer 01

I actually bought the Warm Glow Natural Bronzer from Burberry in August, which makes sense considering one usually wants a bronzed look in summer. But I'm finding myself reaching for it even more often now that my complexion really needs some warming up. It might be a psychological thing or simply the change in light, hard to tell. Besides, Warm Glow #01 (this specific shade is also named Warm Glow. Obviously Burberry wants us bronzed and confused) doesn't make me look tan, it just gives a little color and life, especially when applied with a light hand and blended carefully.

It's hard to describe and define bronzer shades- they vary by their levels and ratio of brown-gold-orange. I find Warm Glow #01 to be the less orange on my skin* and most natural. It really doesn't look like makeup, which is probably why it's such a great choice for the season. It can be built up, though, for a more sun-kissed effect.

Burberry bronzers, like their other powder products, feel very luxurious and finely milled. They have a satiny finish that makes skin glow with no actual shimmer or any visible shiny particles. The texture is the silkiest imagined and a pleasure to apply. I've been using several bronzer and face brushes and it works with all of them- I can't say I have a specific favorite for this bronzer, but Edward Bess Face Brush is probably the best.

*I'm often asked about my exact skin tone. It's a pale olive with both green, yellow and pink undertones and no blue. I don't wear MAC makeup, but I've been told that I'm around NC30-35, but there was no exact match the last time I visited their counter, but that was years ago. I can wear several shades of Chanel foundations, as long as they're on the pale yellow beige side. In Nars terms the best match I found was Stromboli (though I don't own it, so my testing was limited), and in Cover FX numbers I'm M40 (Honey).

Burberry Warm Glow Natural Bronzer ($48) is a Nordstrom exclusive.

All photos are mine.