Helena Rubinstein- Barynia (Vintage Perfume)

Barynia by Helena Rubinstein was launched in 1985, but doesn't really smell like the eighties. Instead, this is an aldehydic floral with classic aspirations, a somewhat haughty demeanor and and just enough animalic notes in the amber dry-down one wonders how seriously to take the hyacinth, aldehydes and rose that preceded them.

I bought a sealed bottle of Barynia in extrait de parfum because the price was (very) right and I was curious. When it arrived I didn't take to it right away, at least on the emotional level. It didn't tell me a story and didn't take me anywhere I haven't been before. After all, we know the schtick, and personally I prefer it in various vintage Chanel perfumes and in Hermes Caleche, where there also used to be a hefty dose of oakmoss and leather. I was also more impressed with another Helena Rubinstein vintage fragrance, Courant.

I gave Barynia a chance, though, because it was pretty and easy to wear. Despite the extrait concentration and darker base, it feels a bit light-weighted, which worked well this past summer. It stayed in the background and never demanded much (or any) attention, but here and there I would notice how nice I smelled. There's a well put-together air to Barynia, without making much of an effort, and I've learned to appreciate it. An occasional compliment also helped endear it to me, especially when it came from my husband, who isn't exactly known for his love of (non Guerlain) vintage perfumes. All in all, Helena Rubinstein didn't really create a classic, but it's very nice to have around.

Barynia has been discontinued for ages. I don't even remember ever seeing it on mainstream shelves, but nowadays it pops online every now and then. The notes, according to Marina of Perfume Smellin' Things are:  bergamot, lemon, aldehyde, hyacinth, violet, rose, jasmine, tuberose, lily of the valley, orris, carnation, orchid, sandal, vetiver, amber, musk, civet, benzoin.

Images: 1985 ads for Helena Rubinstein's Barynia from vintageadbrowser.com

Helena Rubinstein- Barynia (Vintage Perfume)

Barynia by Helena Rubinstein was launched in 1985, but doesn't really smell like the eighties. Instead, this is an aldehydic floral with classic aspirations, a somewhat haughty demeanor and and just enough animalic notes in the amber dry-down one wonders how seriously to take the hyacinth, aldehydes and rose that preceded them.

I bought a sealed bottle of Barynia in extrait de parfum because the price was (very) right and I was curious. When it arrived I didn't take to it right away, at least on the emotional level. It didn't tell me a story and didn't take me anywhere I haven't been before. After all, we know the schtick, and personally I prefer it in various vintage Chanel perfumes and in Hermes Caleche, where there also used to be a hefty dose of oakmoss and leather. I was also more impressed with another Helena Rubinstein vintage fragrance, Courant.

I gave Barynia a chance, though, because it was pretty and easy to wear. Despite the extrait concentration and darker base, it feels a bit light-weighted, which worked well this past summer. It stayed in the background and never demanded much (or any) attention, but here and there I would notice how nice I smelled. There's a well put-together air to Barynia, without making much of an effort, and I've learned to appreciate it. An occasional compliment also helped endear it to me, especially when it came from my husband, who isn't exactly known for his love of (non Guerlain) vintage perfumes. All in all, Helena Rubinstein didn't really create a classic, but it's very nice to have around.

Barynia has been discontinued for ages. I don't even remember ever seeing it on mainstream shelves, but nowadays it pops online every now and then. The notes, according to Marina of Perfume Smellin' Things are:  bergamot, lemon, aldehyde, hyacinth, violet, rose, jasmine, tuberose, lily of the valley, orris, carnation, orchid, sandal, vetiver, amber, musk, civet, benzoin.

Images: 1985 ads for Helena Rubinstein's Barynia from vintageadbrowser.com

Helena Rubinstein- Barynia (Vintage Perfume)

Barynia by Helena Rubinstein was launched in 1985, but doesn't really smell like the eighties. Instead, this is an aldehydic floral with classic aspirations, a somewhat haughty demeanor and and just enough animalic notes in the amber dry-down one wonders how seriously to take the hyacinth, aldehydes and rose that preceded them.

I bought a sealed bottle of Barynia in extrait de parfum because the price was (very) right and I was curious. When it arrived I didn't take to it right away, at least on the emotional level. It didn't tell me a story and didn't take me anywhere I haven't been before. After all, we know the schtick, and personally I prefer it in various vintage Chanel perfumes and in Hermes Caleche, where there also used to be a hefty dose of oakmoss and leather. I was also more impressed with another Helena Rubinstein vintage fragrance, Courant.

I gave Barynia a chance, though, because it was pretty and easy to wear. Despite the extrait concentration and darker base, it feels a bit light-weighted, which worked well this past summer. It stayed in the background and never demanded much (or any) attention, but here and there I would notice how nice I smelled. There's a well put-together air to Barynia, without making much of an effort, and I've learned to appreciate it. An occasional compliment also helped endear it to me, especially when it came from my husband, who isn't exactly known for his love of (non Guerlain) vintage perfumes. All in all, Helena Rubinstein didn't really create a classic, but it's very nice to have around.

Barynia has been discontinued for ages. I don't even remember ever seeing it on mainstream shelves, but nowadays it pops online every now and then. The notes, according to Marina of Perfume Smellin' Things are:  bergamot, lemon, aldehyde, hyacinth, violet, rose, jasmine, tuberose, lily of the valley, orris, carnation, orchid, sandal, vetiver, amber, musk, civet, benzoin.

Images: 1985 ads for Helena Rubinstein's Barynia from vintageadbrowser.com

Nars Yachiyo Brush

Things I can't resist: kittens, fresh pasta, funky hats, figs, vintage Shalimar, handmade accessories, makeup brushes with a unique design. Nars Yachiyo brush falls under the last two categories. It's hand-spun and has an interesting handle made from black wisteria that wraps all around and feels very nice when you hold it.

One of the secrets of a really good blush brush is the amount of product is collects at one sweep and how much buffing and blending one needs to do after depositing the color on skin. That's what makes Nars Yachiyo the superb brush it is. There's something about the domed and tapered shape of the Yachio and its hair density that creates the magic- it makes even dark and very pigmented blushes almost fool-proof (as long as the color looks good on one's skin, that is).

The tapered shape makes the Yachiyo great for more delicate jobs like contouring, if you're so inclined. I played with a little and saw that it can be manipulated very well into small areas such as the sides of your nose. It's also good for touch highlighting either with the tip or sides, and some use it for cleanups, but personally, I prefer a simple fan brush for this purpose.

While this brush isn't the softest one I own, it feels pleasant enough. I've been using it for a little over a month, and while there was a little shading the first week, things are stable now. It survived its first washing (I wrapped the handle with a washcloth while doing it, to protect the black wisteria) and dried well. For such an expensive makeup brush I wish it came in nicer packaging (think Edward Bess brushes) or at least with a protective velvet pouch like Chanel or Guerlain, but that's my only complaint.

Nars Yachiyo Brush ($50) is available from narscosmetics.com and some deartment stores.

Photos by me.

Nars Yachiyo Brush

Things I can't resist: kittens, fresh pasta, funky hats, figs, vintage Shalimar, handmade accessories, makeup brushes with a unique design. Nars Yachiyo brush falls under the last two categories. It's hand-spun and has an interesting handle made from black wisteria that wraps all around and feels very nice when you hold it.

One of the secrets of a really good blush brush is the amount of product is collects at one sweep and how much buffing and blending one needs to do after depositing the color on skin. That's what makes Nars Yachiyo the superb brush it is. There's something about the domed and tapered shape of the Yachio and its hair density that creates the magic- it makes even dark and very pigmented blushes almost fool-proof (as long as the color looks good on one's skin, that is).

The tapered shape makes the Yachiyo great for more delicate jobs like contouring, if you're so inclined. I played with a little and saw that it can be manipulated very well into small areas such as the sides of your nose. It's also good for touch highlighting either with the tip or sides, and some use it for cleanups, but personally, I prefer a simple fan brush for this purpose.

While this brush isn't the softest one I own, it feels pleasant enough. I've been using it for a little over a month, and while there was a little shading the first week, things are stable now. It survived its first washing (I wrapped the handle with a washcloth while doing it, to protect the black wisteria) and dried well. For such an expensive makeup brush I wish it came in nicer packaging (think Edward Bess brushes) or at least with a protective velvet pouch like Chanel or Guerlain, but that's my only complaint.

Nars Yachiyo Brush ($50) is available from narscosmetics.com and some deartment stores.

Photos by me.

Nars Yachiyo Brush

Things I can't resist: kittens, fresh pasta, funky hats, figs, vintage Shalimar, handmade accessories, makeup brushes with a unique design. Nars Yachiyo brush falls under the last two categories. It's hand-spun and has an interesting handle made from black wisteria that wraps all around and feels very nice when you hold it.

One of the secrets of a really good blush brush is the amount of product is collects at one sweep and how much buffing and blending one needs to do after depositing the color on skin. That's what makes Nars Yachiyo the superb brush it is. There's something about the domed and tapered shape of the Yachio and its hair density that creates the magic- it makes even dark and very pigmented blushes almost fool-proof (as long as the color looks good on one's skin, that is).

The tapered shape makes the Yachiyo great for more delicate jobs like contouring, if you're so inclined. I played with a little and saw that it can be manipulated very well into small areas such as the sides of your nose. It's also good for touch highlighting either with the tip or sides, and some use it for cleanups, but personally, I prefer a simple fan brush for this purpose.

While this brush isn't the softest one I own, it feels pleasant enough. I've been using it for a little over a month, and while there was a little shading the first week, things are stable now. It survived its first washing (I wrapped the handle with a washcloth while doing it, to protect the black wisteria) and dried well. For such an expensive makeup brush I wish it came in nicer packaging (think Edward Bess brushes) or at least with a protective velvet pouch like Chanel or Guerlain, but that's my only complaint.

Nars Yachiyo Brush ($50) is available from narscosmetics.com and some deartment stores.

Photos by me.

Laura Mercier Fall Favourites Face Palette Collection (Saks Exclusive)

One of the most beautiful and practical sets of the season comes from Laura Mercier. The Fall Favorites Face Palette Collection is centered around the color palette, but also includes a a full size black mascara and three brushes- cheek, lip and eye. The brushes have short travel size handles but are otherwise full size, high quality and help one get the most of the palette. I wish Bobbi Brown would take notice and do the same with some of her face palettes.

The colors are neutral, wearable and very flattering. I already have a full size pan of Coffee Ground, a matte taupe, which I use often and always pack for travel. As you can see, it coordinates well with the other shades Laura Mercier has included here- Bamboo, Rose and Stellar. The four eye shadows are versatile, perfectly coordinated and are truly great for a day-to-night look. I swatched them very lightly, but the colors can be built for more drama if needed. They have a soft texture and a luxurious finish that fits this set very well.

The blushes are quite universal. I can wear both and also like mixing and blending them together. I could have lived with less shimmer, but it's not too bad. I swatched the colors more heavily then I wear them, to make sure you can see the difference between Spice and Apricot Blossom. A lighter application gives the face a natural healthy glow.

Out of the three lip colors, Crystal is a sheer gloss with very little pigment. I don't wear it on its own, but it's great either mixed with the other two or topping a different lipstick. My favorite thing to do here is blending Black Currant and Orchid together for a juicy and rich neutral color that's dark enough to look sexy but isn't too bold.

The only issue here is the size of the pans. The eye shadows are quite narrow and cross contamination is very easy, especially when using good brushes (like the ones that came with this collection). Still, as long as one is mindful things can be kept fairly clean. I've been putting the palette to good use in the last few weeks and have a feeling I'm going to run out of several colors within 6 months or so.

Bottom Line: Between the pretty packaging, tools and the work horse colors, this is a big winner.

This particular Laura Mercier Fall Favourites Face Palette Collection ($125) is a limited edition and exclusive to Saks (in store and online). Other department stores have different sets for fall 2010 with other colors and products (Neiman's has no lip products but includes more eye shadows and a pencil liner).

All photos are mine.

Laura Mercier Fall Favourites Face Palette Collection (Saks Exclusive)

One of the most beautiful and practical sets of the season comes from Laura Mercier. The Fall Favorites Face Palette Collection is centered around the color palette, but also includes a a full size black mascara and three brushes- cheek, lip and eye. The brushes have short travel size handles but are otherwise full size, high quality and help one get the most of the palette. I wish Bobbi Brown would take notice and do the same with some of her face palettes.

The colors are neutral, wearable and very flattering. I already have a full size pan of Coffee Ground, a matte taupe, which I use often and always pack for travel. As you can see, it coordinates well with the other shades Laura Mercier has included here- Bamboo, Rose and Stellar. The four eye shadows are versatile, perfectly coordinated and are truly great for a day-to-night look. I swatched them very lightly, but the colors can be built for more drama if needed. They have a soft texture and a luxurious finish that fits this set very well.

The blushes are quite universal. I can wear both and also like mixing and blending them together. I could have lived with less shimmer, but it's not too bad. I swatched the colors more heavily then I wear them, to make sure you can see the difference between Spice and Apricot Blossom. A lighter application gives the face a natural healthy glow.

Out of the three lip colors, Crystal is a sheer gloss with very little pigment. I don't wear it on its own, but it's great either mixed with the other two or topping a different lipstick. My favorite thing to do here is blending Black Currant and Orchid together for a juicy and rich neutral color that's dark enough to look sexy but isn't too bold.

The only issue here is the size of the pans. The eye shadows are quite narrow and cross contamination is very easy, especially when using good brushes (like the ones that came with this collection). Still, as long as one is mindful things can be kept fairly clean. I've been putting the palette to good use in the last few weeks and have a feeling I'm going to run out of several colors within 6 months or so.

Bottom Line: Between the pretty packaging, tools and the work horse colors, this is a big winner.

This particular Laura Mercier Fall Favourites Face Palette Collection ($125) is a limited edition and exclusive to Saks (in store and online). Other department stores have different sets for fall 2010 with other colors and products (Neiman's has no lip products but includes more eye shadows and a pencil liner).

All photos are mine.

Laura Mercier Fall Favourites Face Palette Collection (Saks Exclusive)

One of the most beautiful and practical sets of the season comes from Laura Mercier. The Fall Favorites Face Palette Collection is centered around the color palette, but also includes a a full size black mascara and three brushes- cheek, lip and eye. The brushes have short travel size handles but are otherwise full size, high quality and help one get the most of the palette. I wish Bobbi Brown would take notice and do the same with some of her face palettes.

The colors are neutral, wearable and very flattering. I already have a full size pan of Coffee Ground, a matte taupe, which I use often and always pack for travel. As you can see, it coordinates well with the other shades Laura Mercier has included here- Bamboo, Rose and Stellar. The four eye shadows are versatile, perfectly coordinated and are truly great for a day-to-night look. I swatched them very lightly, but the colors can be built for more drama if needed. They have a soft texture and a luxurious finish that fits this set very well.

The blushes are quite universal. I can wear both and also like mixing and blending them together. I could have lived with less shimmer, but it's not too bad. I swatched the colors more heavily then I wear them, to make sure you can see the difference between Spice and Apricot Blossom. A lighter application gives the face a natural healthy glow.

Out of the three lip colors, Crystal is a sheer gloss with very little pigment. I don't wear it on its own, but it's great either mixed with the other two or topping a different lipstick. My favorite thing to do here is blending Black Currant and Orchid together for a juicy and rich neutral color that's dark enough to look sexy but isn't too bold.

The only issue here is the size of the pans. The eye shadows are quite narrow and cross contamination is very easy, especially when using good brushes (like the ones that came with this collection). Still, as long as one is mindful things can be kept fairly clean. I've been putting the palette to good use in the last few weeks and have a feeling I'm going to run out of several colors within 6 months or so.

Bottom Line: Between the pretty packaging, tools and the work horse colors, this is a big winner.

This particular Laura Mercier Fall Favourites Face Palette Collection ($125) is a limited edition and exclusive to Saks (in store and online). Other department stores have different sets for fall 2010 with other colors and products (Neiman's has no lip products but includes more eye shadows and a pencil liner).

All photos are mine.

Vero Profumo- Kiki, Onda & Rubj in Eau de Parfum

Vero Profumo's three original perfumes, Onda, Kiki and Rubj have been cult favorites ever since they came out as an extrait de parfum. Their limited distribution has made them a sort-of-secret , word-of-mouth (and blog) thing among those in the know. The heavy concentration, bombshell  character and stunning composition (not to mention a liberal use of animalic notes) made sure they remain the darlings of only a small part of the perfume community.

As of today, Kiki, Onda and Rubj are also available in eau de parfum concentration. Vero Kern, the Swiss perfumer behind the brand took a long time working on the formulas and tweaking them to her standard of perfection. The final product she presents us is not a diluted juice but a variation on each theme, and I have to say all three have exceeded my expectations.

Kiki EDP might be the one that follows the original most closely while still smelling new. It always had a very gourmand aspect and a boozy fruit somewhere in its heart. That part has been amplified, the heavy curtains of the Parisian boudoir opened a little and more light is now shining in. A day that starts with a couple of Kiki spritzes can never go wrong. As long as one wears the right shoes. And lingerie.

I was most worried about Onda. The extrait is very dear to me- I have felt a strong connection with it from the very first time I sampled it three years ago. The EDP may be less animalic but the sensuality hasn't diminished. It's more polite, perhaps, a little less smoky , but it's still a firecracker in a black leather jacket , ready to raise some hell and take on the world. I doubt anyone who found Onda objectionable in extrait would come around and enjoy it. However, if you loved it but was too self-conscious to wear it in public and deal with the stares, the EDP should make it easier for you.

Rubj might have gained a new level of sensuality in EDP, if that's even possible. It was always sunshiny and bursting with life and energy. The fruity musk drydown now has friends to play with it. A passion fruit note has been added to all three perfumes, but here it gets a solo. I'm not exactly a fruity person, but I love the way Vero has made it work. In the case of Rubj, there's a hefty dose of spice making the fruit as far from a mainstream cliche as can be. There's cumin here and for once its use is not a poor excuse for a sloppy reformulations but a perfect tool to bring out the heat of the composition.

All three EDPs have an excellent all day longevity and a good (though not obnoxious) projection. I'm having a very hard time convincing myself that owning all three extraits (they were a Valentine's Day gift a few years ago) should be enough for me and I don't really need full bottles of the new versions. The problem is they really are that good.

Kiki ($165), Onda ($165) & Rubj ($195) in Eau de Parfum by Vero Profumo (all bottles 50ml)  are available now from Luckyscent. They also sell samples, which I highly recommend if you're not familiar with the line.
I received samples of all three directly from the perfumer.

Art: Woman In A Yellow Dress by Tamara de Lempicka, 1929

Vero Profumo- Kiki, Onda & Rubj in Eau de Parfum

Vero Profumo's three original perfumes, Onda, Kiki and Rubj have been cult favorites ever since they came out as an extrait de parfum. Their limited distribution has made them a sort-of-secret , word-of-mouth (and blog) thing among those in the know. The heavy concentration, bombshell  character and stunning composition (not to mention a liberal use of animalic notes) made sure they remain the darlings of only a small part of the perfume community.

As of today, Kiki, Onda and Rubj are also available in eau de parfum concentration. Vero Kern, the Swiss perfumer behind the brand took a long time working on the formulas and tweaking them to her standard of perfection. The final product she presents us is not a diluted juice but a variation on each theme, and I have to say all three have exceeded my expectations.

Kiki EDP might be the one that follows the original most closely while still smelling new. It always had a very gourmand aspect and a boozy fruit somewhere in its heart. That part has been amplified, the heavy curtains of the Parisian boudoir opened a little and more light is now shining in. A day that starts with a couple of Kiki spritzes can never go wrong. As long as one wears the right shoes. And lingerie.

I was most worried about Onda. The extrait is very dear to me- I have felt a strong connection with it from the very first time I sampled it three years ago. The EDP may be less animalic but the sensuality hasn't diminished. It's more polite, perhaps, a little less smoky , but it's still a firecracker in a black leather jacket , ready to raise some hell and take on the world. I doubt anyone who found Onda objectionable in extrait would come around and enjoy it. However, if you loved it but was too self-conscious to wear it in public and deal with the stares, the EDP should make it easier for you.

Rubj might have gained a new level of sensuality in EDP, if that's even possible. It was always sunshiny and bursting with life and energy. The fruity musk drydown now has friends to play with it. A passion fruit note has been added to all three perfumes, but here it gets a solo. I'm not exactly a fruity person, but I love the way Vero has made it work. In the case of Rubj, there's a hefty dose of spice making the fruit as far from a mainstream cliche as can be. There's cumin here and for once its use is not a poor excuse for a sloppy reformulations but a perfect tool to bring out the heat of the composition.

All three EDPs have an excellent all day longevity and a good (though not obnoxious) projection. I'm having a very hard time convincing myself that owning all three extraits (they were a Valentine's Day gift a few years ago) should be enough for me and I don't really need full bottles of the new versions. The problem is they really are that good.

Kiki ($165), Onda ($165) & Rubj ($195) in Eau de Parfum by Vero Profumo (all bottles 50ml)  are available now from Luckyscent. They also sell samples, which I highly recommend if you're not familiar with the line.
I received samples of all three directly from the perfumer.

Art: Woman In A Yellow Dress by Tamara de Lempicka, 1929