Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Ava Luxe Kama (EDP and Parfum Extrait)


I first tested Kama by Ava Luxe from a sample of the EDP and loved the naughty musk with its powdery heart and a hint of sweet darkness. It was sexy but never heavy or cheap and always wearable, despite an impressive sillage. When the sample was drained, I decided to upgrade and buy the extrait, hoping for more of the same, only deeper and darker.

The parfum extrait is a bit different, and I'm not sure I made the right decision. Don't get me wrong: I like it a lot and the drydown is delicious in a way reminiscent of other musky favorites such as Musc Ravageur. It's less powdery sweet and probably easier to wear for guys who shy away from vanilla. The labdanum is very prominent ( think of Le Labo Labdanum or a more masculine Barbara Bui). As expected, the extrait is closer to the skin than the EDP but surprisingly lacking in staying power. My other issue with it is the first 30 minutes that are a little to rough and jagged. It has quite a bit of unpolished resinous wood that makes the scent feel a bit unfinished. Not in a bad way, but something is missing.

It doesn't change the fact I just want to bathe in Kama and feel it all around me. The drydown is soft and satisfying in that comforting way I find in many musks, including the dirtiest. Kama is labeled as animalic, but I get no skank. Then again, I also wear MKK, so don't take my word for it.

Kama by Ava Luxe is available as EDP ($45) and extrait ($50) from the creator's web site, http://www.ava-luxe.com

Image: Brocata Ochre by Fabian Perez from Vinings Gallery

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