Tuesday, April 7, 2009

YSL Nu (EDP)- The Lost Perfumes Series


This is shaping up to be an Yves Saint Laurent week. Not planned, but nice.

The opening blast of YSL Nu is so similar to Donna Karan's Black Cashmere (and to a degree also to Idole de Lubin) it makes one wonder if they aren't redundant. It's a strong, dark and spicy incense, not particularly feminine and decidedly challenging. It's no wonder neither Black Cashmere nor Nu have ever been a Sephora best seller and are more of a cult fragrances.

The difference from Black Cashmere begins once Nu starts developing on skin. While BC has all that gothic rose-saffron excitement that keeps it very bold and dominant like a pair of black patent leather stiletto boots, Nu is more of an introvert. Nu means "nude", and while I'd never call it a skin scent, it does hover much more closely to the body and is a lot softer. The floral notes (supposedly white orchid) are beautiful and just a step away from powdery, leading the way to drydown that alternates between a sweet fruity musk that's even more sensual and skin-caressing, and a faint, almost smoky vetiver that keeps things surprisingly cool.

I see Nu as a sophisticated, urban perfume. There's nothing cozy about it despite its softer side. Nu is easier to wear than Black Cashmere because it's not as aggressive and the somewhat more feminine turn it takes (I still consider it quite unisex, though), but it requires dressing up and taking it someplace fabulous.

Nu was created in 2001 and discontinued about two years ago. For a while it was available criminally cheap from most online discounters. Lately it's become a little harder to find, though the price is still under $50. This review is for the EDP in the round compact-like bottle in the black plastic box. There's also an EDT in a blue bottle that was marketed for men and is supposedly closely-related but different enough to be considered a separate entity.

Image: Patricia Neal and Gary Cooper in The Fountainhead from screenrush.co.uk

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