Histoires de Parfums- Noir Patchouli

Noir Patchouli from Histoires de Parfums is somewhat of an enigma. Sometimes it feels like a femme fatale of a perfume, all black velvet, dimmed lights and a skirt with a slit up to there. However, at times the very dry base gets the upper hand with its gender ambiguity and a brisk attitude. And that's perfectly fine, too.

Noir Patchouli is a dark scent from its spicy opening to the very complex base. It's a little loud at first but then develops a quiet assertiveness- it will be noticed without poking anyone in the eye. The initial sillage calms down very quickly and one is left with a very personal and sensual veil of smoky wood. The use of patchouli in every stage feels very modern. It showcases the note among almost-sweet spices, dry woody notes and blended with musk, vetiver and leather in a more traditional setting (I cannot smell the promised oakmoss to save my life, but considering the restriction on the use of this ingredient it's not really surprising). The end results settles beautifully on skin without a hint of neither cheap headshops nor the often-found dirt and chocolate.

It took me a few wearings to realize how easy it would actually be for a man to wear this Histoires de Parfums creation. At first I was too focused on Noir Patchouli's tactile qualities- the softness and the way it smells when I stick my nose inside my own sweater. Of course it's feminine- it smells like me. But the dry and woody aspect, not to mention the smoky vetiver with a hint of leather would appeal to most men. They just have to love patchouli.

Noir Patchouli ($185, 4oz EDP) and the rest of the Histoires de Parfum line can be found at Henri Bendel in NYC, Beauty Cafe and Mio Mia in Brooklyn (as well as online).

Art: Portrait of the Duchess of La Salle by Tamara de Lempicka, 1925.

Histoires de Parfums- Noir Patchouli

Noir Patchouli from Histoires de Parfums is somewhat of an enigma. Sometimes it feels like a femme fatale of a perfume, all black velvet, dimmed lights and a skirt with a slit up to there. However, at times the very dry base gets the upper hand with its gender ambiguity and a brisk attitude. And that's perfectly fine, too.

Noir Patchouli is a dark scent from its spicy opening to the very complex base. It's a little loud at first but then develops a quiet assertiveness- it will be noticed without poking anyone in the eye. The initial sillage calms down very quickly and one is left with a very personal and sensual veil of smoky wood. The use of patchouli in every stage feels very modern. It showcases the note among almost-sweet spices, dry woody notes and blended with musk, vetiver and leather in a more traditional setting (I cannot smell the promised oakmoss to save my life, but considering the restriction on the use of this ingredient it's not really surprising). The end results settles beautifully on skin without a hint of neither cheap headshops nor the often-found dirt and chocolate.

It took me a few wearings to realize how easy it would actually be for a man to wear this Histoires de Parfums creation. At first I was too focused on Noir Patchouli's tactile qualities- the softness and the way it smells when I stick my nose inside my own sweater. Of course it's feminine- it smells like me. But the dry and woody aspect, not to mention the smoky vetiver with a hint of leather would appeal to most men. They just have to love patchouli.

Noir Patchouli ($185, 4oz EDP) and the rest of the Histoires de Parfum line can be found at Henri Bendel in NYC, Beauty Cafe and Mio Mia in Brooklyn (as well as online).

Art: Portrait of the Duchess of La Salle by Tamara de Lempicka, 1925.

Histoires de Parfums- Noir Patchouli

Noir Patchouli from Histoires de Parfums is somewhat of an enigma. Sometimes it feels like a femme fatale of a perfume, all black velvet, dimmed lights and a skirt with a slit up to there. However, at times the very dry base gets the upper hand with its gender ambiguity and a brisk attitude. And that's perfectly fine, too.

Noir Patchouli is a dark scent from its spicy opening to the very complex base. It's a little loud at first but then develops a quiet assertiveness- it will be noticed without poking anyone in the eye. The initial sillage calms down very quickly and one is left with a very personal and sensual veil of smoky wood. The use of patchouli in every stage feels very modern. It showcases the note among almost-sweet spices, dry woody notes and blended with musk, vetiver and leather in a more traditional setting (I cannot smell the promised oakmoss to save my life, but considering the restriction on the use of this ingredient it's not really surprising). The end results settles beautifully on skin without a hint of neither cheap headshops nor the often-found dirt and chocolate.

It took me a few wearings to realize how easy it would actually be for a man to wear this Histoires de Parfums creation. At first I was too focused on Noir Patchouli's tactile qualities- the softness and the way it smells when I stick my nose inside my own sweater. Of course it's feminine- it smells like me. But the dry and woody aspect, not to mention the smoky vetiver with a hint of leather would appeal to most men. They just have to love patchouli.

Noir Patchouli ($185, 4oz EDP) and the rest of the Histoires de Parfum line can be found at Henri Bendel in NYC, Beauty Cafe and Mio Mia in Brooklyn (as well as online).

Art: Portrait of the Duchess of La Salle by Tamara de Lempicka, 1925.

Histoires de Parfums Tubéreuse 3 L'Animale

Histoires de Parfums Tubéreuse 3 L'Animale was an instant love for me. It smells like perfume- real and rich, not pretending to be fresh or get out of the way of those who might be offended. Tubéreuse 3 L'Animale is so unapologetically sexy from the very first notes, even if the dirty part isn't actually civet, castoreum or any of the usual suspects. As a matter of fact, the official notes are a bit tame: kumquat, neroli, tuberose, plum, herbs, dry grass, blond tobacco and immortelle flower.

Tuberose can go in many directions. Usually it's paired with gardenia for a diva effect that takes up all the air in the room, but there are kinkier versions with notes that don't seem to belong and yet they magically do (Tubreuse Criminelle by Uncle Serge and Tubreuse Couture from Parfumerie Generalle). Then there's my personal holy grail, Ferme tes Yeux by JAR, which might be the most carnal scent I can think of. It's all about the coupling of tuberose and civet. It scares people.

Histoires de Parfums didn't go quite that far, which is probably good since they want to sell perfume here and there. Tubéreuse 3 L'Animale relies on tobacco and immortelle to carry it from intoxicating white flowers to the realms of flesh and intimacy. It does it by being warm and soft and just a little sweaty.  It blooms on the skin the way a test strip can never let on, so sniffing the bottle or the blotter is useless. You don't get the liquid honey feeling unless you wear the perfume for a while.

Histoires de Parfums Tubéreuse Trilogy ($185 per bottle. No. 1 Capricious is a more classic powdery floral and No. 2  Virginale is too fruity for my taste) is available from Beauty Cafe and Miomia. They also come in the new(ish) travel size Nomad Kit ($96 for three 0.46 oz mini bottles. A very tempting deal).

Photo by Norman Parkinson.

Histoires de Parfums Tubéreuse 3 L'Animale

Histoires de Parfums Tubéreuse 3 L'Animale was an instant love for me. It smells like perfume- real and rich, not pretending to be fresh or get out of the way of those who might be offended. Tubéreuse 3 L'Animale is so unapologetically sexy from the very first notes, even if the dirty part isn't actually civet, castoreum or any of the usual suspects. As a matter of fact, the official notes are a bit tame: kumquat, neroli, tuberose, plum, herbs, dry grass, blond tobacco and immortelle flower.

Tuberose can go in many directions. Usually it's paired with gardenia for a diva effect that takes up all the air in the room, but there are kinkier versions with notes that don't seem to belong and yet they magically do (Tubreuse Criminelle by Uncle Serge and Tubreuse Couture from Parfumerie Generalle). Then there's my personal holy grail, Ferme tes Yeux by JAR, which might be the most carnal scent I can think of. It's all about the coupling of tuberose and civet. It scares people.

Histoires de Parfums didn't go quite that far, which is probably good since they want to sell perfume here and there. Tubéreuse 3 L'Animale relies on tobacco and immortelle to carry it from intoxicating white flowers to the realms of flesh and intimacy. It does it by being warm and soft and just a little sweaty.  It blooms on the skin the way a test strip can never let on, so sniffing the bottle or the blotter is useless. You don't get the liquid honey feeling unless you wear the perfume for a while.

Histoires de Parfums Tubéreuse Trilogy ($185 per bottle. No. 1 Capricious is a more classic powdery floral and No. 2  Virginale is too fruity for my taste) is available from Beauty Cafe and Miomia. They also come in the new(ish) travel size Nomad Kit ($96 for three 0.46 oz mini bottles. A very tempting deal).

Photo by Norman Parkinson.

Histoires de Parfums Tubéreuse 3 L'Animale

Histoires de Parfums Tubéreuse 3 L'Animale was an instant love for me. It smells like perfume- real and rich, not pretending to be fresh or get out of the way of those who might be offended. Tubéreuse 3 L'Animale is so unapologetically sexy from the very first notes, even if the dirty part isn't actually civet, castoreum or any of the usual suspects. As a matter of fact, the official notes are a bit tame: kumquat, neroli, tuberose, plum, herbs, dry grass, blond tobacco and immortelle flower.

Tuberose can go in many directions. Usually it's paired with gardenia for a diva effect that takes up all the air in the room, but there are kinkier versions with notes that don't seem to belong and yet they magically do (Tubreuse Criminelle by Uncle Serge and Tubreuse Couture from Parfumerie Generalle). Then there's my personal holy grail, Ferme tes Yeux by JAR, which might be the most carnal scent I can think of. It's all about the coupling of tuberose and civet. It scares people.

Histoires de Parfums didn't go quite that far, which is probably good since they want to sell perfume here and there. Tubéreuse 3 L'Animale relies on tobacco and immortelle to carry it from intoxicating white flowers to the realms of flesh and intimacy. It does it by being warm and soft and just a little sweaty.  It blooms on the skin the way a test strip can never let on, so sniffing the bottle or the blotter is useless. You don't get the liquid honey feeling unless you wear the perfume for a while.

Histoires de Parfums Tubéreuse Trilogy ($185 per bottle. No. 1 Capricious is a more classic powdery floral and No. 2  Virginale is too fruity for my taste) is available from Beauty Cafe and Miomia. They also come in the new(ish) travel size Nomad Kit ($96 for three 0.46 oz mini bottles. A very tempting deal).

Photo by Norman Parkinson.

Histoires de Parfums Ambre 114

Looking at my fragrance wardrobe, it's pretty clear I'm a fan of amber accord in almost any form. After all, what's not to love? It's rich, warm, often sweet and paired with vanilla and spice. Histoires de Parfums Amber 114 is no different in this regard, and despite all the other ambers I wear, it still has a place in my perfume cabinet as it's different enough.

Ambre 114 feels more restrained and pulled together than the exuberant powerhouse of Ambre Sultan. It shares the pairing of herbs and spice in the top and middle notes, but it's not as chewy and vegetal. Actually, while the 114 in the name stands for the number of ingredients in the perfume (how very Le Labo), the blending is so smooth and seamless it doesn't really invite you to play "spot the note". There's more of a feeling- a spicy phase, a floral streak and all that powdery vanilla-tonka-benzoin of a spicy oriental that makes one glue her nose to her wrist and roll her eyes with pleasure.

The entire Histoires de Parfums line is beautifully made and worth exploring, but right now Ambre 114 is my favorite (well, together with the sexy 1740 Marquis de Sade and 1969 which feels like an elegant and improved Angel), probably because it allows me to indulge in amber even in hot weather. I like to wear it at night as it's a bit dressy, but unlike many other ambers it doesn't feel dense. The herbal element keeps it clean (and unisex), and the very moderate sillage makes it appropriate almost everywhere, though my personal taste finds it on the romantic side.

Histoires de Parfums scents ($185 for 120 ml) are available in the US from Takashimaya in NYC and online through beautycafe.com, where you can also order samples of the entire line. In Europe, it's available directly from the company's website (130 €). I received the samples and a mini of Ambre 114 as a PR freebie.

Art: Shooting Star by Sabzi

Histoires de Parfums Ambre 114

Looking at my fragrance wardrobe, it's pretty clear I'm a fan of amber accord in almost any form. After all, what's not to love? It's rich, warm, often sweet and paired with vanilla and spice. Histoires de Parfums Amber 114 is no different in this regard, and despite all the other ambers I wear, it still has a place in my perfume cabinet as it's different enough.

Ambre 114 feels more restrained and pulled together than the exuberant powerhouse of Ambre Sultan. It shares the pairing of herbs and spice in the top and middle notes, but it's not as chewy and vegetal. Actually, while the 114 in the name stands for the number of ingredients in the perfume (how very Le Labo), the blending is so smooth and seamless it doesn't really invite you to play "spot the note". There's more of a feeling- a spicy phase, a floral streak and all that powdery vanilla-tonka-benzoin of a spicy oriental that makes one glue her nose to her wrist and roll her eyes with pleasure.

The entire Histoires de Parfums line is beautifully made and worth exploring, but right now Ambre 114 is my favorite (well, together with the sexy 1740 Marquis de Sade and 1969 which feels like an elegant and improved Angel), probably because it allows me to indulge in amber even in hot weather. I like to wear it at night as it's a bit dressy, but unlike many other ambers it doesn't feel dense. The herbal element keeps it clean (and unisex), and the very moderate sillage makes it appropriate almost everywhere, though my personal taste finds it on the romantic side.

Histoires de Parfums scents ($185 for 120 ml) are available in the US from Takashimaya in NYC and online through beautycafe.com, where you can also order samples of the entire line. In Europe, it's available directly from the company's website (130 €). I received the samples and a mini of Ambre 114 as a PR freebie.

Art: Shooting Star by Sabzi

Histoires de Parfums Ambre 114

Looking at my fragrance wardrobe, it's pretty clear I'm a fan of amber accord in almost any form. After all, what's not to love? It's rich, warm, often sweet and paired with vanilla and spice. Histoires de Parfums Amber 114 is no different in this regard, and despite all the other ambers I wear, it still has a place in my perfume cabinet as it's different enough.

Ambre 114 feels more restrained and pulled together than the exuberant powerhouse of Ambre Sultan. It shares the pairing of herbs and spice in the top and middle notes, but it's not as chewy and vegetal. Actually, while the 114 in the name stands for the number of ingredients in the perfume (how very Le Labo), the blending is so smooth and seamless it doesn't really invite you to play "spot the note". There's more of a feeling- a spicy phase, a floral streak and all that powdery vanilla-tonka-benzoin of a spicy oriental that makes one glue her nose to her wrist and roll her eyes with pleasure.

The entire Histoires de Parfums line is beautifully made and worth exploring, but right now Ambre 114 is my favorite (well, together with the sexy 1740 Marquis de Sade and 1969 which feels like an elegant and improved Angel), probably because it allows me to indulge in amber even in hot weather. I like to wear it at night as it's a bit dressy, but unlike many other ambers it doesn't feel dense. The herbal element keeps it clean (and unisex), and the very moderate sillage makes it appropriate almost everywhere, though my personal taste finds it on the romantic side.

Histoires de Parfums scents ($185 for 120 ml) are available in the US from Takashimaya in NYC and online through beautycafe.com, where you can also order samples of the entire line. In Europe, it's available directly from the company's website (130 €). I received the samples and a mini of Ambre 114 as a PR freebie.

Art: Shooting Star by Sabzi