Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier- Centaure

I had the hardest time finding a good art work to accompany this post. Most of what you get when you google centaur images most of what you find is either gloriously hideous or bordering on pornography. Apparently, the concept of half man-half horse captured the image of people far less talented than Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier's Jean Laporte. Centaure the fragrance deserves much better than mytho-porn.

Centaure is considered a masculine and I'm not going to argue with the label on this 1991 Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier creation. All I'm saying is it's so pleasant, balanced and well-made it has a universal appeal and wearability, as long as one does not object to lavender, tobacco and mint in a woody-balsamic setting.  The overall feel of Centaure is very refined- no rough edges or out-of-place notes. It lures you in with a friendly citrus and herbs opening that is crisp without screaming "fresh". The lavender and mint don't try to choke you on hair tonic and toothpaste. Instead, they smell alert and natural and are greatly softened by the floral heart that feels like it's almost lit from within.

The dry-down is where things get a bit darker and more opaque. There is an elegance to the way Centaure comes together and moves from the summer garden into the shade of ancient trees. Maybe that's where the mythological creature is lurking. But if he's there, he's still out of sight and smelling range- don't expect any animalics. Instead, there's an aromatic honeyed tobacco, smooth and rich with an amazing all-day longevity. It's a fabulous summer scent for those of us who get bored easily with the usual citrusy suspects. Yet Centaure has enough depth and body to offer for colder weather.

Centaure and the rest of the Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier line ($120, 100ml) is available from Henri Bendel and Luckyscent. My bottle is of the older 90ml edition. As far as I could tell from a quick spray and Sniff at Bendel they smell the same.

Art: Centaur by Azriel Awret

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier- Centaure

I had the hardest time finding a good art work to accompany this post. Most of what you get when you google centaur images most of what you find is either gloriously hideous or bordering on pornography. Apparently, the concept of half man-half horse captured the image of people far less talented than Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier's Jean Laporte. Centaure the fragrance deserves much better than mytho-porn.

Centaure is considered a masculine and I'm not going to argue with the label on this 1991 Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier creation. All I'm saying is it's so pleasant, balanced and well-made it has a universal appeal and wearability, as long as one does not object to lavender, tobacco and mint in a woody-balsamic setting.  The overall feel of Centaure is very refined- no rough edges or out-of-place notes. It lures you in with a friendly citrus and herbs opening that is crisp without screaming "fresh". The lavender and mint don't try to choke you on hair tonic and toothpaste. Instead, they smell alert and natural and are greatly softened by the floral heart that feels like it's almost lit from within.

The dry-down is where things get a bit darker and more opaque. There is an elegance to the way Centaure comes together and moves from the summer garden into the shade of ancient trees. Maybe that's where the mythological creature is lurking. But if he's there, he's still out of sight and smelling range- don't expect any animalics. Instead, there's an aromatic honeyed tobacco, smooth and rich with an amazing all-day longevity. It's a fabulous summer scent for those of us who get bored easily with the usual citrusy suspects. Yet Centaure has enough depth and body to offer for colder weather.

Centaure and the rest of the Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier line ($120, 100ml) is available from Henri Bendel and Luckyscent. My bottle is of the older 90ml edition. As far as I could tell from a quick spray and Sniff at Bendel they smell the same.

Art: Centaur by Azriel Awret

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier- Centaure

I had the hardest time finding a good art work to accompany this post. Most of what you get when you google centaur images most of what you find is either gloriously hideous or bordering on pornography. Apparently, the concept of half man-half horse captured the image of people far less talented than Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier's Jean Laporte. Centaure the fragrance deserves much better than mytho-porn.

Centaure is considered a masculine and I'm not going to argue with the label on this 1991 Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier creation. All I'm saying is it's so pleasant, balanced and well-made it has a universal appeal and wearability, as long as one does not object to lavender, tobacco and mint in a woody-balsamic setting.  The overall feel of Centaure is very refined- no rough edges or out-of-place notes. It lures you in with a friendly citrus and herbs opening that is crisp without screaming "fresh". The lavender and mint don't try to choke you on hair tonic and toothpaste. Instead, they smell alert and natural and are greatly softened by the floral heart that feels like it's almost lit from within.

The dry-down is where things get a bit darker and more opaque. There is an elegance to the way Centaure comes together and moves from the summer garden into the shade of ancient trees. Maybe that's where the mythological creature is lurking. But if he's there, he's still out of sight and smelling range- don't expect any animalics. Instead, there's an aromatic honeyed tobacco, smooth and rich with an amazing all-day longevity. It's a fabulous summer scent for those of us who get bored easily with the usual citrusy suspects. Yet Centaure has enough depth and body to offer for colder weather.

Centaure and the rest of the Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier line ($120, 100ml) is available from Henri Bendel and Luckyscent. My bottle is of the older 90ml edition. As far as I could tell from a quick spray and Sniff at Bendel they smell the same.

Art: Centaur by Azriel Awret

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier- Santal Noble

I don't have any statistics to back me up on this, but when it comes to sandalwood perfumes the more popular ones seem to have that comforting creaminess of 10 Corso Como and Tam Dao. These scents go well with hot cocoa and a cashmere blanket, which is probably why they are considered more unisex than the formal Santal Noble by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier.

Santal Noble is a very dry incense and wood scent with a dark amber-patchouli drydown. It's quite spicy and peppery, especially during the first couple of hours I have it on, and has an exotic vibe at times. If I spray enough of it (and I do. It makes a world of difference for Santal Noble's staying power), I seem to pick a light saffron note, especially in warm weather. The overall impression of this Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier cologne is very woody, crisp and impossibly proper. It can be the male equivalent of a cashmere twin-set and heirloom pearls, except that it's a lot more tailored than that. Santal Noble is a scent fit for Tim Gunn, and just like him, it's always right.

The original version of Santal Noble (before MPG repackaged and reformulated) seemed to have a richer, almost thick drydown, but since the sample I have is much older than my bottle of the newer formula, it also might be due to aging. In any case, the new Santal Noble is very good and satisfying, with its dignity intact. As for the gender issue, I understand why many women would balk at wearing a scent that goes well with a tux.  I still think it's worth trying, because you never know. I'm as girly as they come, but it's no secret that I wear vetiver, cedar and other woods much better than I wear rose or violet. It's all about skin chemistry and personal taste, after all.

Santal Noble as well as the other Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier fragrances ($120, 100 ml EDT) is available from Henri Bendel in NYC, Luckyscent/Scent Bar in Los Angeles and beautyhabit.com, which was where I purchased my bottle.

Photo of Tim Gunn from chicagotribune.com

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier- Santal Noble

I don't have any statistics to back me up on this, but when it comes to sandalwood perfumes the more popular ones seem to have that comforting creaminess of 10 Corso Como and Tam Dao. These scents go well with hot cocoa and a cashmere blanket, which is probably why they are considered more unisex than the formal Santal Noble by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier.

Santal Noble is a very dry incense and wood scent with a dark amber-patchouli drydown. It's quite spicy and peppery, especially during the first couple of hours I have it on, and has an exotic vibe at times. If I spray enough of it (and I do. It makes a world of difference for Santal Noble's staying power), I seem to pick a light saffron note, especially in warm weather. The overall impression of this Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier cologne is very woody, crisp and impossibly proper. It can be the male equivalent of a cashmere twin-set and heirloom pearls, except that it's a lot more tailored than that. Santal Noble is a scent fit for Tim Gunn, and just like him, it's always right.

The original version of Santal Noble (before MPG repackaged and reformulated) seemed to have a richer, almost thick drydown, but since the sample I have is much older than my bottle of the newer formula, it also might be due to aging. In any case, the new Santal Noble is very good and satisfying, with its dignity intact. As for the gender issue, I understand why many women would balk at wearing a scent that goes well with a tux.  I still think it's worth trying, because you never know. I'm as girly as they come, but it's no secret that I wear vetiver, cedar and other woods much better than I wear rose or violet. It's all about skin chemistry and personal taste, after all.

Santal Noble as well as the other Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier fragrances ($120, 100 ml EDT) is available from Henri Bendel in NYC, Luckyscent/Scent Bar in Los Angeles and beautyhabit.com, which was where I purchased my bottle.

Photo of Tim Gunn from chicagotribune.com

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier- Santal Noble

I don't have any statistics to back me up on this, but when it comes to sandalwood perfumes the more popular ones seem to have that comforting creaminess of 10 Corso Como and Tam Dao. These scents go well with hot cocoa and a cashmere blanket, which is probably why they are considered more unisex than the formal Santal Noble by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier.

Santal Noble is a very dry incense and wood scent with a dark amber-patchouli drydown. It's quite spicy and peppery, especially during the first couple of hours I have it on, and has an exotic vibe at times. If I spray enough of it (and I do. It makes a world of difference for Santal Noble's staying power), I seem to pick a light saffron note, especially in warm weather. The overall impression of this Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier cologne is very woody, crisp and impossibly proper. It can be the male equivalent of a cashmere twin-set and heirloom pearls, except that it's a lot more tailored than that. Santal Noble is a scent fit for Tim Gunn, and just like him, it's always right.

The original version of Santal Noble (before MPG repackaged and reformulated) seemed to have a richer, almost thick drydown, but since the sample I have is much older than my bottle of the newer formula, it also might be due to aging. In any case, the new Santal Noble is very good and satisfying, with its dignity intact. As for the gender issue, I understand why many women would balk at wearing a scent that goes well with a tux.  I still think it's worth trying, because you never know. I'm as girly as they come, but it's no secret that I wear vetiver, cedar and other woods much better than I wear rose or violet. It's all about skin chemistry and personal taste, after all.

Santal Noble as well as the other Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier fragrances ($120, 100 ml EDT) is available from Henri Bendel in NYC, Luckyscent/Scent Bar in Los Angeles and beautyhabit.com, which was where I purchased my bottle.

Photo of Tim Gunn from chicagotribune.com

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier- Parfum d'Habit

According to most reviewers on Basenotes,  Parfum d'Habit by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier is a manly powerhouse storming on his horse into sunset. A vintage Clint Eastwood type of scent, perhaps. In reality, I don't find any cowboys in Parfum d'Habit, despite its strong jaw and all the leather and vetiver involved.

The opening notes are a bit sharp and nose-tickling. Online sources name them as blackcurrant buds, bergamot and petitgrain, and I certainly get the bitterness of the latter. But things soften significantly as soon as the leather comes into play. It's more of a vintage black coat than a buttery suede jacket, probably because the strong patchouli note keeps it dark and somewhat dirty. Still, the allover feel is warm, dry and woody. For the first couple of hours something is constantly happening on my skin. A green and herbal note peeks from under the wood, a hint of raw animalic sensuality that disappears as soon as I notice and try to catch more of it, and a lot of crisp vetiver.

Yes, these are some of the basics of masculine colognes, but when I wear it I don't feel like I'm putting on a costume or a false air. This Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier scent actually feels more refined than Racine or Route du Vetiver, maybe closer to Santal Noble. It's not flirty and doesn't try to please, but there's an air of easy confidence and effortless chic. That's a good thing no matter who you are.

After a long and unfortunate hiatus, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier perfumes are back in the US and can be found at Henri Bendel and Luckyscent.

Photo: Lauren Bacall by Nina Leen, Life Magazine May 1945.

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier- Parfum d'Habit

According to most reviewers on Basenotes,  Parfum d'Habit by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier is a manly powerhouse storming on his horse into sunset. A vintage Clint Eastwood type of scent, perhaps. In reality, I don't find any cowboys in Parfum d'Habit, despite its strong jaw and all the leather and vetiver involved.

The opening notes are a bit sharp and nose-tickling. Online sources name them as blackcurrant buds, bergamot and petitgrain, and I certainly get the bitterness of the latter. But things soften significantly as soon as the leather comes into play. It's more of a vintage black coat than a buttery suede jacket, probably because the strong patchouli note keeps it dark and somewhat dirty. Still, the allover feel is warm, dry and woody. For the first couple of hours something is constantly happening on my skin. A green and herbal note peeks from under the wood, a hint of raw animalic sensuality that disappears as soon as I notice and try to catch more of it, and a lot of crisp vetiver.

Yes, these are some of the basics of masculine colognes, but when I wear it I don't feel like I'm putting on a costume or a false air. This Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier scent actually feels more refined than Racine or Route du Vetiver, maybe closer to Santal Noble. It's not flirty and doesn't try to please, but there's an air of easy confidence and effortless chic. That's a good thing no matter who you are.

After a long and unfortunate hiatus, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier perfumes are back in the US and can be found at Henri Bendel and Luckyscent.

Photo: Lauren Bacall by Nina Leen, Life Magazine May 1945.

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier- Parfum d'Habit

According to most reviewers on Basenotes,  Parfum d'Habit by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier is a manly powerhouse storming on his horse into sunset. A vintage Clint Eastwood type of scent, perhaps. In reality, I don't find any cowboys in Parfum d'Habit, despite its strong jaw and all the leather and vetiver involved.

The opening notes are a bit sharp and nose-tickling. Online sources name them as blackcurrant buds, bergamot and petitgrain, and I certainly get the bitterness of the latter. But things soften significantly as soon as the leather comes into play. It's more of a vintage black coat than a buttery suede jacket, probably because the strong patchouli note keeps it dark and somewhat dirty. Still, the allover feel is warm, dry and woody. For the first couple of hours something is constantly happening on my skin. A green and herbal note peeks from under the wood, a hint of raw animalic sensuality that disappears as soon as I notice and try to catch more of it, and a lot of crisp vetiver.

Yes, these are some of the basics of masculine colognes, but when I wear it I don't feel like I'm putting on a costume or a false air. This Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier scent actually feels more refined than Racine or Route du Vetiver, maybe closer to Santal Noble. It's not flirty and doesn't try to please, but there's an air of easy confidence and effortless chic. That's a good thing no matter who you are.

After a long and unfortunate hiatus, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier perfumes are back in the US and can be found at Henri Bendel and Luckyscent.

Photo: Lauren Bacall by Nina Leen, Life Magazine May 1945.

Breaking News: MPG Perfumes Back At Henri Bendel!

I just got a call from Giuseppe at Henri Bendel: The Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier line is once again available. Since Henri Bendel is somewhat stuck in the early nineties ecommerce-wise you'd have to give them a call (212-247-1100) to order your bottle(s) or go to the store in person.

Update: Luckyscent (Scentbar) in L.A. is also selling MPG now.


MPG bottle store display photo by me (from a couple of years ago in Paris).

Breaking News: MPG Perfumes Back At Henri Bendel!

I just got a call from Giuseppe at Henri Bendel: The Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier line is once again available. Since Henri Bendel is somewhat stuck in the early nineties ecommerce-wise you'd have to give them a call (212-247-1100) to order your bottle(s) or go to the store in person.

Update: Luckyscent (Scentbar) in L.A. is also selling MPG now.


MPG bottle store display photo by me (from a couple of years ago in Paris).

Breaking News: MPG Perfumes Back At Henri Bendel!

I just got a call from Giuseppe at Henri Bendel: The Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier line is once again available. Since Henri Bendel is somewhat stuck in the early nineties ecommerce-wise you'd have to give them a call (212-247-1100) to order your bottle(s) or go to the store in person.

Update: Luckyscent (Scentbar) in L.A. is also selling MPG now.


MPG bottle store display photo by me (from a couple of years ago in Paris).

Good News: Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Is Back

Here's the scoop right from Giuseppe at Henri Bendel: Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier have a new American distributor and the line is back on the shelves. He expects to have the full range of fragrances within a couple of weeks. So we can stop stocking up on Route de Vetiver and Or des Indes. I was surprised to know that Annick Goutal was close to facing a very similar issue- their USA availability was jeopardized by the distributor going bankrupt. This might be the reason we've seen huge stocks of Goutal perfumes at cutthroat prices online. In any case, danger averted.

More on the Henri Bendel front: I sniffed the new house scents and they're not half bad. Incense & Musk is a lighter, fluffier cousin of Donna Karan's Black Cashmere. I also enjoyed Persian Lime & Pepper (just how it sounds) and Grapefruit & Vetiver (ditto). All come in an EDP concentration for $65. Not a breakthrough in perfumery by any mean, but cute and wearable.

Some interesting makeup news to follow...

Good News: Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Is Back

Here's the scoop right from Giuseppe at Henri Bendel: Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier have a new American distributor and the line is back on the shelves. He expects to have the full range of fragrances within a couple of weeks. So we can stop stocking up on Route de Vetiver and Or des Indes. I was surprised to know that Annick Goutal was close to facing a very similar issue- their USA availability was jeopardized by the distributor going bankrupt. This might be the reason we've seen huge stocks of Goutal perfumes at cutthroat prices online. In any case, danger averted.

More on the Henri Bendel front: I sniffed the new house scents and they're not half bad. Incense & Musk is a lighter, fluffier cousin of Donna Karan's Black Cashmere. I also enjoyed Persian Lime & Pepper (just how it sounds) and Grapefruit & Vetiver (ditto). All come in an EDP concentration for $65. Not a breakthrough in perfumery by any mean, but cute and wearable.

Some interesting makeup news to follow...

Good News: Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Is Back

Here's the scoop right from Giuseppe at Henri Bendel: Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier have a new American distributor and the line is back on the shelves. He expects to have the full range of fragrances within a couple of weeks. So we can stop stocking up on Route de Vetiver and Or des Indes. I was surprised to know that Annick Goutal was close to facing a very similar issue- their USA availability was jeopardized by the distributor going bankrupt. This might be the reason we've seen huge stocks of Goutal perfumes at cutthroat prices online. In any case, danger averted.

More on the Henri Bendel front: I sniffed the new house scents and they're not half bad. Incense & Musk is a lighter, fluffier cousin of Donna Karan's Black Cashmere. I also enjoyed Persian Lime & Pepper (just how it sounds) and Grapefruit & Vetiver (ditto). All come in an EDP concentration for $65. Not a breakthrough in perfumery by any mean, but cute and wearable.

Some interesting makeup news to follow...

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier- Iris Bleu Gris

If I could list only one reason why MPG, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, should continue making perfume, it would be Iris Bleu Gris.

Iris Bleu Gris is part of the masculine line, but I've always liked it better than its feminine sibling, Fleur d'Iris, because it's far more interesting and original. While Fleur d'Iris is cute, sweet and smells like someone's idea of what a feminine iris should be, Iris Bleu Gris is the real thing- complex, dark and dry. Instead of a powdery feeling, it is dusty and leathery, and dries down into an almost sweet musk. It doesn't have the famous earthy carrot note of Iris Silver Mist (Lutens) or the woody backbone of Infusion d'Iris (Prada). Instead there's something mossy and maybe some hay in the background.

The opening is almost bitter, which I love. It makes you pay attention and stand up straight. It becomes a bit less formal and stiff afterwards, without losing the edge. I don't think I could wear it with a pink cashmere sweater, but a belted trench coat and an Hermes scarf are a perfect match.

There's a lot of uncertainty about the future of Maître Parfumeur et Gantier. I can't find much definite information, but it looks like their website hasn't been updated in ages, and all their listed NYC retailers are no longer getting new stock.The entire Maître Parfumeur et Gantier line is now back in stock at Henri Bendel and Luckyscent.

Art: Gray Iris by Christopher Redwine

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier- Iris Bleu Gris

If I could list only one reason why MPG, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, should continue making perfume, it would be Iris Bleu Gris.

Iris Bleu Gris is part of the masculine line, but I've always liked it better than its feminine sibling, Fleur d'Iris, because it's far more interesting and original. While Fleur d'Iris is cute, sweet and smells like someone's idea of what a feminine iris should be, Iris Bleu Gris is the real thing- complex, dark and dry. Instead of a powdery feeling, it is dusty and leathery, and dries down into an almost sweet musk. It doesn't have the famous earthy carrot note of Iris Silver Mist (Lutens) or the woody backbone of Infusion d'Iris (Prada). Instead there's something mossy and maybe some hay in the background.

The opening is almost bitter, which I love. It makes you pay attention and stand up straight. It becomes a bit less formal and stiff afterwards, without losing the edge. I don't think I could wear it with a pink cashmere sweater, but a belted trench coat and an Hermes scarf are a perfect match.

There's a lot of uncertainty about the future of Maître Parfumeur et Gantier. I can't find much definite information, but it looks like their website hasn't been updated in ages, and all their listed NYC retailers are no longer getting new stock.The entire Maître Parfumeur et Gantier line is now back in stock at Henri Bendel and Luckyscent.

Art: Gray Iris by Christopher Redwine

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier- Iris Bleu Gris

If I could list only one reason why MPG, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, should continue making perfume, it would be Iris Bleu Gris.

Iris Bleu Gris is part of the masculine line, but I've always liked it better than its feminine sibling, Fleur d'Iris, because it's far more interesting and original. While Fleur d'Iris is cute, sweet and smells like someone's idea of what a feminine iris should be, Iris Bleu Gris is the real thing- complex, dark and dry. Instead of a powdery feeling, it is dusty and leathery, and dries down into an almost sweet musk. It doesn't have the famous earthy carrot note of Iris Silver Mist (Lutens) or the woody backbone of Infusion d'Iris (Prada). Instead there's something mossy and maybe some hay in the background.

The opening is almost bitter, which I love. It makes you pay attention and stand up straight. It becomes a bit less formal and stiff afterwards, without losing the edge. I don't think I could wear it with a pink cashmere sweater, but a belted trench coat and an Hermes scarf are a perfect match.

There's a lot of uncertainty about the future of Maître Parfumeur et Gantier. I can't find much definite information, but it looks like their website hasn't been updated in ages, and all their listed NYC retailers are no longer getting new stock.The entire Maître Parfumeur et Gantier line is now back in stock at Henri Bendel and Luckyscent.

Art: Gray Iris by Christopher Redwine

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Racine (Old and New)

Racine is the gentler, kinder sibling of Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier's Route de Vetiver.

The combination of citrus and vetiver is not exactly revolutionary. Guerlain has done it before to a great commercial success (how many of us own a bottle of their Vetiver, vintage and/or new?), which Racine, a 1988 creation, has sadly never achieved in either one of its formulations.

The first few times I've worn the original juice I found it too similar to other vetiver scents but got a smoky leather note late in the drydown. It's interesting how sometimes your perception of a perfume changes over time. I'm far more focused on the vetiver, and I find it delicate, almost transparently green. An interesting aspect of Racine is the way the citrus reappears here in there. Instead of self-combusting like most citrusy top notes, there's some lemon or maybe lemongrass that is woven into the vetiver, lifting it up.

My bottle is of the new, reformulated version, but I still have some of the original cologne and can compare the two. The differences are subtle- the vetiver in the older one feels darker, the citrus in the new one is sharper and the base is not as smoothly blended. It's a bit earthier and bears more resemblance to Route de Vetiver. Racine is still a great scent, even in this reformulated, less suave form.

Racine, like the entire Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier line, is no longer distributed outside of France, and even there its future is unclear. There are still bottles to be found, mostly online.

Art: Pamela Sukhum- Tibet II

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Racine (Old and New)

Racine is the gentler, kinder sibling of Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier's Route de Vetiver.

The combination of citrus and vetiver is not exactly revolutionary. Guerlain has done it before to a great commercial success (how many of us own a bottle of their Vetiver, vintage and/or new?), which Racine, a 1988 creation, has sadly never achieved in either one of its formulations.

The first few times I've worn the original juice I found it too similar to other vetiver scents but got a smoky leather note late in the drydown. It's interesting how sometimes your perception of a perfume changes over time. I'm far more focused on the vetiver, and I find it delicate, almost transparently green. An interesting aspect of Racine is the way the citrus reappears here in there. Instead of self-combusting like most citrusy top notes, there's some lemon or maybe lemongrass that is woven into the vetiver, lifting it up.

My bottle is of the new, reformulated version, but I still have some of the original cologne and can compare the two. The differences are subtle- the vetiver in the older one feels darker, the citrus in the new one is sharper and the base is not as smoothly blended. It's a bit earthier and bears more resemblance to Route de Vetiver. Racine is still a great scent, even in this reformulated, less suave form.

Racine, like the entire Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier line, is no longer distributed outside of France, and even there its future is unclear. There are still bottles to be found, mostly online.

Art: Pamela Sukhum- Tibet II