Serge Lutens Five O'Clock Au Gingembre

I wonder how things would have turned had Serge Lutens released Five O'Clock Au Gingembre in 1998 and not 2008. I have a feeling this spicy oriental tea scent (orientea?) would have been accept with a lot more enthusiasm ten years and twenty or so perfumes ago.

I think of Five O'Clock Au Gingembre as the civilized version of Arabie (which I absolutely cannot stand). In Arabie, Serge Lutens and his prophet, Christopher Sheldrake, take you by the hand touring the back alleys of an Arabian souk. You walk the narrow streets, see and touch everything- from the sublime to the grime. Your exotic tour in Gingembre is done aboard the Orient Express. You see the sights from afar and the smells get mixed with the ones of your train car. The butler brings in your tea and cookies on a silver tray, there's an endless supply of starched linens, hot water and various delicacies.

The sharp ginger note in the opening is the only part of which I'm a bit iffy. Ginger tends to do that. I love it in ELdO Like This (and in my food), but usually it's not my favorite perfumery trick. Here the top notes are quite astringent for a brief second before the familiar Lutens magic appears with its cinnamon, honey, cookies and dark chocolate. There's something reminiscent of both Rousse and Feminite de Bois, but the black smoky tea takes the perfume in a different direction and gives it its own special character.

Five O'Clock Au Gingembre has an understated elegance. It's not quite in your face as several of the classic Lutens perfumes, which might be why some were so disappointed upon its release. I'm grateful they held back the cumin and instead explored a kinder route.

Five O'Clock Au Gingembre ($120, 50ml EDP) is available everywhere they sell the Serge Lutens export line- Bergdorf, Barneys, Aedes,Luckyscent and others.

Serge Lutens Five O'Clock Au Gingembre

I wonder how things would have turned had Serge Lutens released Five O'Clock Au Gingembre in 1998 and not 2008. I have a feeling this spicy oriental tea scent (orientea?) would have been accept with a lot more enthusiasm ten years and twenty or so perfumes ago.

I think of Five O'Clock Au Gingembre as the civilized version of Arabie (which I absolutely cannot stand). In Arabie, Serge Lutens and his prophet, Christopher Sheldrake, take you by the hand touring the back alleys of an Arabian souk. You walk the narrow streets, see and touch everything- from the sublime to the grime. Your exotic tour in Gingembre is done aboard the Orient Express. You see the sights from afar and the smells get mixed with the ones of your train car. The butler brings in your tea and cookies on a silver tray, there's an endless supply of starched linens, hot water and various delicacies.

The sharp ginger note in the opening is the only part of which I'm a bit iffy. Ginger tends to do that. I love it in ELdO Like This (and in my food), but usually it's not my favorite perfumery trick. Here the top notes are quite astringent for a brief second before the familiar Lutens magic appears with its cinnamon, honey, cookies and dark chocolate. There's something reminiscent of both Rousse and Feminite de Bois, but the black smoky tea takes the perfume in a different direction and gives it its own special character.

Five O'Clock Au Gingembre has an understated elegance. It's not quite in your face as several of the classic Lutens perfumes, which might be why some were so disappointed upon its release. I'm grateful they held back the cumin and instead explored a kinder route.

Five O'Clock Au Gingembre ($120, 50ml EDP) is available everywhere they sell the Serge Lutens export line- Bergdorf, Barneys, Aedes,Luckyscent and others.

Serge Lutens Five O'Clock Au Gingembre

I wonder how things would have turned had Serge Lutens released Five O'Clock Au Gingembre in 1998 and not 2008. I have a feeling this spicy oriental tea scent (orientea?) would have been accept with a lot more enthusiasm ten years and twenty or so perfumes ago.

I think of Five O'Clock Au Gingembre as the civilized version of Arabie (which I absolutely cannot stand). In Arabie, Serge Lutens and his prophet, Christopher Sheldrake, take you by the hand touring the back alleys of an Arabian souk. You walk the narrow streets, see and touch everything- from the sublime to the grime. Your exotic tour in Gingembre is done aboard the Orient Express. You see the sights from afar and the smells get mixed with the ones of your train car. The butler brings in your tea and cookies on a silver tray, there's an endless supply of starched linens, hot water and various delicacies.

The sharp ginger note in the opening is the only part of which I'm a bit iffy. Ginger tends to do that. I love it in ELdO Like This (and in my food), but usually it's not my favorite perfumery trick. Here the top notes are quite astringent for a brief second before the familiar Lutens magic appears with its cinnamon, honey, cookies and dark chocolate. There's something reminiscent of both Rousse and Feminite de Bois, but the black smoky tea takes the perfume in a different direction and gives it its own special character.

Five O'Clock Au Gingembre has an understated elegance. It's not quite in your face as several of the classic Lutens perfumes, which might be why some were so disappointed upon its release. I'm grateful they held back the cumin and instead explored a kinder route.

Five O'Clock Au Gingembre ($120, 50ml EDP) is available everywhere they sell the Serge Lutens export line- Bergdorf, Barneys, Aedes,Luckyscent and others.

Serge Lutens- Bas de Soie

Poor Uncle Serge. His 1994 Iris Silver Mist is such an iconic masterpiece, anything else he releases that's even remotely iris-related is destined to be found lacking. Add to that the collective kvetching of the perfume community following the previous Serge Lutens export perfume, L'Eau, and you get the air of discontent that prevailed even before the first blogger sprayed a sample of the new scent on skin. But it's very unfair to compare this year's Bas de Soie to the cold and transcendent Lutens/Roucel ISM. They do not play the same field.

Where Iris Silver Mist is otherworldly, cold and ambiguous, Bas de Soie is corporeal, tangible and very much alive. The name means silk stockings which is quite befitting. There's a luxurious smoothness here and something retro in this perfume- not in a dated way at all, but in the image the warm dry iris powder conjures. Maybe it's the hyacinth, a note that can make just about any perfume beautiful. Its role here is not as romantic as it is in Chamade or Grand Amour: instead the hyacinth provides a thread of lightness and color and prevents the iris from becoming too dusty. This aspect is more obvious to me when skin temperature rises, while on a cold afternoon I get more powder and a cashmere-like sensation.

If you're familiar with the two MPG iris perfumes- Iris Bleu Gris and its feminine counterpart Fleur d'Iris- you know the two are hardly related to each other.In fact, the candied violet of Fleur d'Iris is quite disappointing compared to the muted beauty of the masculine-labeled Iris Bleu Gris. Bas de Soie is what I hoped Fleur d'Iris would be. A softer and more sensual variation on the dry and bitter iris theme. I don't consider it super-feminine, just easier to wear for women who don't like austerity in their perfume. Me? I love it all and have been wearing Bas de Soie at every opportunity since acquiring the bottle.

Bas de Soie ($120, 1.7 oz EDP) is part of Serge Lutens export range and can be found at all the authorized dealers- Aedes, Luckyscent, Barneys, etc. As of two weeks ago Bergdorf Goodman hasn't received it yet, but they are usually a little behind Barneys when it comes to new Lutens releases.

Photo from 0rchid_thief on Live Journal

Serge Lutens- Bas de Soie

Poor Uncle Serge. His 1994 Iris Silver Mist is such an iconic masterpiece, anything else he releases that's even remotely iris-related is destined to be found lacking. Add to that the collective kvetching of the perfume community following the previous Serge Lutens export perfume, L'Eau, and you get the air of discontent that prevailed even before the first blogger sprayed a sample of the new scent on skin. But it's very unfair to compare this year's Bas de Soie to the cold and transcendent Lutens/Roucel ISM. They do not play the same field.

Where Iris Silver Mist is otherworldly, cold and ambiguous, Bas de Soie is corporeal, tangible and very much alive. The name means silk stockings which is quite befitting. There's a luxurious smoothness here and something retro in this perfume- not in a dated way at all, but in the image the warm dry iris powder conjures. Maybe it's the hyacinth, a note that can make just about any perfume beautiful. Its role here is not as romantic as it is in Chamade or Grand Amour: instead the hyacinth provides a thread of lightness and color and prevents the iris from becoming too dusty. This aspect is more obvious to me when skin temperature rises, while on a cold afternoon I get more powder and a cashmere-like sensation.

If you're familiar with the two MPG iris perfumes- Iris Bleu Gris and its feminine counterpart Fleur d'Iris- you know the two are hardly related to each other.In fact, the candied violet of Fleur d'Iris is quite disappointing compared to the muted beauty of the masculine-labeled Iris Bleu Gris. Bas de Soie is what I hoped Fleur d'Iris would be. A softer and more sensual variation on the dry and bitter iris theme. I don't consider it super-feminine, just easier to wear for women who don't like austerity in their perfume. Me? I love it all and have been wearing Bas de Soie at every opportunity since acquiring the bottle.

Bas de Soie ($120, 1.7 oz EDP) is part of Serge Lutens export range and can be found at all the authorized dealers- Aedes, Luckyscent, Barneys, etc. As of two weeks ago Bergdorf Goodman hasn't received it yet, but they are usually a little behind Barneys when it comes to new Lutens releases.

Photo from 0rchid_thief on Live Journal

Serge Lutens- Bas de Soie

Poor Uncle Serge. His 1994 Iris Silver Mist is such an iconic masterpiece, anything else he releases that's even remotely iris-related is destined to be found lacking. Add to that the collective kvetching of the perfume community following the previous Serge Lutens export perfume, L'Eau, and you get the air of discontent that prevailed even before the first blogger sprayed a sample of the new scent on skin. But it's very unfair to compare this year's Bas de Soie to the cold and transcendent Lutens/Roucel ISM. They do not play the same field.

Where Iris Silver Mist is otherworldly, cold and ambiguous, Bas de Soie is corporeal, tangible and very much alive. The name means silk stockings which is quite befitting. There's a luxurious smoothness here and something retro in this perfume- not in a dated way at all, but in the image the warm dry iris powder conjures. Maybe it's the hyacinth, a note that can make just about any perfume beautiful. Its role here is not as romantic as it is in Chamade or Grand Amour: instead the hyacinth provides a thread of lightness and color and prevents the iris from becoming too dusty. This aspect is more obvious to me when skin temperature rises, while on a cold afternoon I get more powder and a cashmere-like sensation.

If you're familiar with the two MPG iris perfumes- Iris Bleu Gris and its feminine counterpart Fleur d'Iris- you know the two are hardly related to each other.In fact, the candied violet of Fleur d'Iris is quite disappointing compared to the muted beauty of the masculine-labeled Iris Bleu Gris. Bas de Soie is what I hoped Fleur d'Iris would be. A softer and more sensual variation on the dry and bitter iris theme. I don't consider it super-feminine, just easier to wear for women who don't like austerity in their perfume. Me? I love it all and have been wearing Bas de Soie at every opportunity since acquiring the bottle.

Bas de Soie ($120, 1.7 oz EDP) is part of Serge Lutens export range and can be found at all the authorized dealers- Aedes, Luckyscent, Barneys, etc. As of two weeks ago Bergdorf Goodman hasn't received it yet, but they are usually a little behind Barneys when it comes to new Lutens releases.

Photo from 0rchid_thief on Live Journal

Heresy? Layering Serge Lutens Perfumes

Perfume lovers can be split into two categories: those who layer and those who don't. Even among the first group, sometimes the idea of wearing together two (or more!) complex and statement-making perfumes can be regarded as both crazy, tasteless or being disrespectful to the perfumer and his vision. In the case of Serge Lutens, it's usually all of the above. But somehow, despite the fear of the Palais Royal and its wrath, there are quite a few of us that dare to experiment.

It might have begun for some by using a drop or two of Muscs Kublai Khan to add depth and raunchiness to some more innocent perfumes. It makes sense, after all, right? Then came other perfectly reasonable ideas- Un Bois Vanille in its sweet and creamy glory can lift up dry woods that some women find too masculine and add depth to citrus scents. I've been using one spray of UBV when wearing Annick Goutal's Eau d'Hadrien.

Next- Ambre Sultan. Adding an amber base to florals, especially roses, works beautifully. Just like Tom Ford's Amber Absolute that layers beautifully with his Noir de Noir, one can do the same with Ambre Sultan and Sa Majeste La Rose. And Clair de Musc is the perfect clean musk base that works with just about everything...

Once you start layering and realize that Uncle Serge isn't going to come after you and confiscate your bell jars it's hard to stop. Yes, for the most part Lutens perfumes are round, complex and full of their individual personalities. But there's something about them that allows these scents to coexist and play well together. There's a special magic and satisfaction when you find a pairing that works for you, so why not?

Here are some of my favorite combination:

Rousse+Louve+Clair de Musc (one spray each)
Un Bois Vanille+Fleurs d'Oranger
Ambre Sultan+Rousse
Fleurs de Citronnier+Clair de Musc
Rousse+Cuir Mauresque
Santal Blanc+Nuit de Cellophane

Do you layer your perfumes? Please feel free to add your suggestions.

Photo of Serge Lutens: luxuryculture.com

Heresy? Layering Serge Lutens Perfumes

Perfume lovers can be split into two categories: those who layer and those who don't. Even among the first group, sometimes the idea of wearing together two (or more!) complex and statement-making perfumes can be regarded as both crazy, tasteless or being disrespectful to the perfumer and his vision. In the case of Serge Lutens, it's usually all of the above. But somehow, despite the fear of the Palais Royal and its wrath, there are quite a few of us that dare to experiment.

It might have begun for some by using a drop or two of Muscs Kublai Khan to add depth and raunchiness to some more innocent perfumes. It makes sense, after all, right? Then came other perfectly reasonable ideas- Un Bois Vanille in its sweet and creamy glory can lift up dry woods that some women find too masculine and add depth to citrus scents. I've been using one spray of UBV when wearing Annick Goutal's Eau d'Hadrien.

Next- Ambre Sultan. Adding an amber base to florals, especially roses, works beautifully. Just like Tom Ford's Amber Absolute that layers beautifully with his Noir de Noir, one can do the same with Ambre Sultan and Sa Majeste La Rose. And Clair de Musc is the perfect clean musk base that works with just about everything...

Once you start layering and realize that Uncle Serge isn't going to come after you and confiscate your bell jars it's hard to stop. Yes, for the most part Lutens perfumes are round, complex and full of their individual personalities. But there's something about them that allows these scents to coexist and play well together. There's a special magic and satisfaction when you find a pairing that works for you, so why not?

Here are some of my favorite combination:

Rousse+Louve+Clair de Musc (one spray each)
Un Bois Vanille+Fleurs d'Oranger
Ambre Sultan+Rousse
Fleurs de Citronnier+Clair de Musc
Rousse+Cuir Mauresque
Santal Blanc+Nuit de Cellophane

Do you layer your perfumes? Please feel free to add your suggestions.

Photo of Serge Lutens: luxuryculture.com

Heresy? Layering Serge Lutens Perfumes

Perfume lovers can be split into two categories: those who layer and those who don't. Even among the first group, sometimes the idea of wearing together two (or more!) complex and statement-making perfumes can be regarded as both crazy, tasteless or being disrespectful to the perfumer and his vision. In the case of Serge Lutens, it's usually all of the above. But somehow, despite the fear of the Palais Royal and its wrath, there are quite a few of us that dare to experiment.

It might have begun for some by using a drop or two of Muscs Kublai Khan to add depth and raunchiness to some more innocent perfumes. It makes sense, after all, right? Then came other perfectly reasonable ideas- Un Bois Vanille in its sweet and creamy glory can lift up dry woods that some women find too masculine and add depth to citrus scents. I've been using one spray of UBV when wearing Annick Goutal's Eau d'Hadrien.

Next- Ambre Sultan. Adding an amber base to florals, especially roses, works beautifully. Just like Tom Ford's Amber Absolute that layers beautifully with his Noir de Noir, one can do the same with Ambre Sultan and Sa Majeste La Rose. And Clair de Musc is the perfect clean musk base that works with just about everything...

Once you start layering and realize that Uncle Serge isn't going to come after you and confiscate your bell jars it's hard to stop. Yes, for the most part Lutens perfumes are round, complex and full of their individual personalities. But there's something about them that allows these scents to coexist and play well together. There's a special magic and satisfaction when you find a pairing that works for you, so why not?

Here are some of my favorite combination:

Rousse+Louve+Clair de Musc (one spray each)
Un Bois Vanille+Fleurs d'Oranger
Ambre Sultan+Rousse
Fleurs de Citronnier+Clair de Musc
Rousse+Cuir Mauresque
Santal Blanc+Nuit de Cellophane

Do you layer your perfumes? Please feel free to add your suggestions.

Photo of Serge Lutens: luxuryculture.com

Serge Lutens- Sa Majeste La Rose

It doesn't get any rosier than Serge Lutens' Sa Majeste La Rose. This perfume is a round, full and dewy rose. It feels ripe and so realistic you can almost touch and even taste the flower, which has an optimistic and unexpected honeyed apple note. As far as rose soliflores go, Uncle Serge (and Christopher Sheldrake, his apostle) might have created the perfect scent here. My problem is that I don't get along with so much rose- it becomes too sour on my skin and loses most of the other notes in the process.

But on good chemistry days I actually get more from Sa Majeste La Rose, including a hint of wood and a very musky drydown that makes it a lot sexier than I ever expected. I wish it would develop like this every single time, instead of forcing me to layer this rose with other Serge Lutens perfumes to ward off the sourness. Not that layering Sa Majeste is not fun. Actually, sometimes it seems this scent was meant just for that. I've gone through countless of samples just experimenting and enjoying how nicely it plays with almost every other Lutens (just avoid Borneo. That combination was a disaster). Ambre Sultan is an obvious choice, but other good combinations include Un Bois Vanille, Fleurs d'Oranger, Miel de Bois (if you dare) and Clair de Musc. Separately.

Sa Majeste La Rose ($120, 50 ml) is available from all the usual suspects that sell Serge Luten's export range. My samples came with various other purchases, mostly from Aedes.

Photo: Into A Sea Of Dew by MissyV110 on flickr

Serge Lutens- Sa Majeste La Rose

It doesn't get any rosier than Serge Lutens' Sa Majeste La Rose. This perfume is a round, full and dewy rose. It feels ripe and so realistic you can almost touch and even taste the flower, which has an optimistic and unexpected honeyed apple note. As far as rose soliflores go, Uncle Serge (and Christopher Sheldrake, his apostle) might have created the perfect scent here. My problem is that I don't get along with so much rose- it becomes too sour on my skin and loses most of the other notes in the process.

But on good chemistry days I actually get more from Sa Majeste La Rose, including a hint of wood and a very musky drydown that makes it a lot sexier than I ever expected. I wish it would develop like this every single time, instead of forcing me to layer this rose with other Serge Lutens perfumes to ward off the sourness. Not that layering Sa Majeste is not fun. Actually, sometimes it seems this scent was meant just for that. I've gone through countless of samples just experimenting and enjoying how nicely it plays with almost every other Lutens (just avoid Borneo. That combination was a disaster). Ambre Sultan is an obvious choice, but other good combinations include Un Bois Vanille, Fleurs d'Oranger, Miel de Bois (if you dare) and Clair de Musc. Separately.

Sa Majeste La Rose ($120, 50 ml) is available from all the usual suspects that sell Serge Luten's export range. My samples came with various other purchases, mostly from Aedes.

Photo: Into A Sea Of Dew by MissyV110 on flickr

Serge Lutens- Sa Majeste La Rose

It doesn't get any rosier than Serge Lutens' Sa Majeste La Rose. This perfume is a round, full and dewy rose. It feels ripe and so realistic you can almost touch and even taste the flower, which has an optimistic and unexpected honeyed apple note. As far as rose soliflores go, Uncle Serge (and Christopher Sheldrake, his apostle) might have created the perfect scent here. My problem is that I don't get along with so much rose- it becomes too sour on my skin and loses most of the other notes in the process.

But on good chemistry days I actually get more from Sa Majeste La Rose, including a hint of wood and a very musky drydown that makes it a lot sexier than I ever expected. I wish it would develop like this every single time, instead of forcing me to layer this rose with other Serge Lutens perfumes to ward off the sourness. Not that layering Sa Majeste is not fun. Actually, sometimes it seems this scent was meant just for that. I've gone through countless of samples just experimenting and enjoying how nicely it plays with almost every other Lutens (just avoid Borneo. That combination was a disaster). Ambre Sultan is an obvious choice, but other good combinations include Un Bois Vanille, Fleurs d'Oranger, Miel de Bois (if you dare) and Clair de Musc. Separately.

Sa Majeste La Rose ($120, 50 ml) is available from all the usual suspects that sell Serge Luten's export range. My samples came with various other purchases, mostly from Aedes.

Photo: Into A Sea Of Dew by MissyV110 on flickr

Serge Lutens- Where Does He Go From Here?

The perfume industry isn't what it used to be. We've known it for a while, years actually. Some optimistic but severely misguided souls tried to comfort themselves that while the big names, traditional houses and huge designer brands are all about the money and thus happy to comply with both IFRA and their CFOs and discontinue scents left and right, we will always have niche.

But niche houses, big and small, have their own bottom line to consider. Gobin-Daude disappeared into the ether, the exact status of Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier remains unclear, but they haven't updated their website in a couple of years and their NYC retailers only have a handful of bottles still remaining (if any). They haven't received a new shipment in ages. Other great brands have been phasing out perfumes left and right. Tom Ford said from the very beginning that the Private Blend line will change over time. Underperformers will be replaced with other scents. Sadly, the first victims of the policy have already been announced (Bois Rouge, Moss Breches, Purple Patchouli and Velvet Gardenia. All of them deserved a better fate). JAR had to stop producing the magnificent Shadow, most likely because of IFRA's oakmoss restriction. Annick Goutal had to reformulate the classic Eau d'Hadrien because, apparently, citrus oil is a weapon of mass destruction. But the worst news yet broke yesterday when Elena of Perfume Shrine posted about Serge Lutens sending four of his fragrances to the big Palais Royal in the sky.

This is a first for Serge Lutens and has shocked and devastated many fans, me included. Uncle Serge has been honest and upfront (well, as much as his Holy Crypticness can be) about the reformulation issue. It's no secret that the new version of Feminite de Bois isn't the same as the old Shiseido one. The same goes for Chergui. There were persistent rumours about the future of Miel de Bois after it was pulled from the export range and placed in the more exclusive bell jar. Between the scent's lack of popularity and an issue with the raw materials being placed on IFRA's black list, MdB was doomed. But no one saw the other ones coming: the relatively new (though admittedly not the biggest seller) Chypre Rouge and the two classics Douce Amere and Clair de Musc. The latter is especially surprising as Clair de Musc was considered by many a Serge for beginners and a layering essential. It really seemed like it was selling relatively well. Obviously, not well enough.

The axing of the four perfumes was not the only disquieting news from the Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido. The most recent release, L'Eau Serge Lutens, had many of Uncle Serge's biggest fans scratching our heads. It was not just an "anti perfume". It was an "anti Serge", "anti Lutenade" and anti everything we've ever expected to emerge from the famed purple halls. Speculations were aplenty. From Papa Serge always doing the unexpected to simply selling out. Since Elena's review was as favorable as it was insightful, I was ready to believe it was his way of telling the world "You wanted clean? Here, let me show you how to do it right". Sort of flipping the bird in his very refined and ironic way.

But the latest news seem to be pointing to another, sadder direction. Have the Powers That Be at Shiseido, Uncle Serge's financial backer, started to put their foot down? Did they tell him to start making money, or else? Did they tell him that any new release must have a mass market appeal and smell shower fresh?

This is nothing but speculation of course, but my guess is that dear Uncle Serge is not going to have his art be dictated by bureaucrats and bean counters. As Elena has mentioned, he has hinted in the past that might go do something completely different. We've always known that perfume is not his be all and end all and he can always have Chris Sheldrake whip for him a special batch of extra strength MKK. It's us who are losing here big time and might be left with nothing but this.

Photos of Uncle Serge: luxuryculture.com

Serge Lutens- Where Does He Go From Here?

The perfume industry isn't what it used to be. We've known it for a while, years actually. Some optimistic but severely misguided souls tried to comfort themselves that while the big names, traditional houses and huge designer brands are all about the money and thus happy to comply with both IFRA and their CFOs and discontinue scents left and right, we will always have niche.

But niche houses, big and small, have their own bottom line to consider. Gobin-Daude disappeared into the ether, the exact status of Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier remains unclear, but they haven't updated their website in a couple of years and their NYC retailers only have a handful of bottles still remaining (if any). They haven't received a new shipment in ages. Other great brands have been phasing out perfumes left and right. Tom Ford said from the very beginning that the Private Blend line will change over time. Underperformers will be replaced with other scents. Sadly, the first victims of the policy have already been announced (Bois Rouge, Moss Breches, Purple Patchouli and Velvet Gardenia. All of them deserved a better fate). JAR had to stop producing the magnificent Shadow, most likely because of IFRA's oakmoss restriction. Annick Goutal had to reformulate the classic Eau d'Hadrien because, apparently, citrus oil is a weapon of mass destruction. But the worst news yet broke yesterday when Elena of Perfume Shrine posted about Serge Lutens sending four of his fragrances to the big Palais Royal in the sky.

This is a first for Serge Lutens and has shocked and devastated many fans, me included. Uncle Serge has been honest and upfront (well, as much as his Holy Crypticness can be) about the reformulation issue. It's no secret that the new version of Feminite de Bois isn't the same as the old Shiseido one. The same goes for Chergui. There were persistent rumours about the future of Miel de Bois after it was pulled from the export range and placed in the more exclusive bell jar. Between the scent's lack of popularity and an issue with the raw materials being placed on IFRA's black list, MdB was doomed. But no one saw the other ones coming: the relatively new (though admittedly not the biggest seller) Chypre Rouge and the two classics Douce Amere and Clair de Musc. The latter is especially surprising as Clair de Musc was considered by many a Serge for beginners and a layering essential. It really seemed like it was selling relatively well. Obviously, not well enough.

The axing of the four perfumes was not the only disquieting news from the Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido. The most recent release, L'Eau Serge Lutens, had many of Uncle Serge's biggest fans scratching our heads. It was not just an "anti perfume". It was an "anti Serge", "anti Lutenade" and anti everything we've ever expected to emerge from the famed purple halls. Speculations were aplenty. From Papa Serge always doing the unexpected to simply selling out. Since Elena's review was as favorable as it was insightful, I was ready to believe it was his way of telling the world "You wanted clean? Here, let me show you how to do it right". Sort of flipping the bird in his very refined and ironic way.

But the latest news seem to be pointing to another, sadder direction. Have the Powers That Be at Shiseido, Uncle Serge's financial backer, started to put their foot down? Did they tell him to start making money, or else? Did they tell him that any new release must have a mass market appeal and smell shower fresh?

This is nothing but speculation of course, but my guess is that dear Uncle Serge is not going to have his art be dictated by bureaucrats and bean counters. As Elena has mentioned, he has hinted in the past that might go do something completely different. We've always known that perfume is not his be all and end all and he can always have Chris Sheldrake whip for him a special batch of extra strength MKK. It's us who are losing here big time and might be left with nothing but this.

Photos of Uncle Serge: luxuryculture.com

Serge Lutens- Where Does He Go From Here?

The perfume industry isn't what it used to be. We've known it for a while, years actually. Some optimistic but severely misguided souls tried to comfort themselves that while the big names, traditional houses and huge designer brands are all about the money and thus happy to comply with both IFRA and their CFOs and discontinue scents left and right, we will always have niche.

But niche houses, big and small, have their own bottom line to consider. Gobin-Daude disappeared into the ether, the exact status of Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier remains unclear, but they haven't updated their website in a couple of years and their NYC retailers only have a handful of bottles still remaining (if any). They haven't received a new shipment in ages. Other great brands have been phasing out perfumes left and right. Tom Ford said from the very beginning that the Private Blend line will change over time. Underperformers will be replaced with other scents. Sadly, the first victims of the policy have already been announced (Bois Rouge, Moss Breches, Purple Patchouli and Velvet Gardenia. All of them deserved a better fate). JAR had to stop producing the magnificent Shadow, most likely because of IFRA's oakmoss restriction. Annick Goutal had to reformulate the classic Eau d'Hadrien because, apparently, citrus oil is a weapon of mass destruction. But the worst news yet broke yesterday when Elena of Perfume Shrine posted about Serge Lutens sending four of his fragrances to the big Palais Royal in the sky.

This is a first for Serge Lutens and has shocked and devastated many fans, me included. Uncle Serge has been honest and upfront (well, as much as his Holy Crypticness can be) about the reformulation issue. It's no secret that the new version of Feminite de Bois isn't the same as the old Shiseido one. The same goes for Chergui. There were persistent rumours about the future of Miel de Bois after it was pulled from the export range and placed in the more exclusive bell jar. Between the scent's lack of popularity and an issue with the raw materials being placed on IFRA's black list, MdB was doomed. But no one saw the other ones coming: the relatively new (though admittedly not the biggest seller) Chypre Rouge and the two classics Douce Amere and Clair de Musc. The latter is especially surprising as Clair de Musc was considered by many a Serge for beginners and a layering essential. It really seemed like it was selling relatively well. Obviously, not well enough.

The axing of the four perfumes was not the only disquieting news from the Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido. The most recent release, L'Eau Serge Lutens, had many of Uncle Serge's biggest fans scratching our heads. It was not just an "anti perfume". It was an "anti Serge", "anti Lutenade" and anti everything we've ever expected to emerge from the famed purple halls. Speculations were aplenty. From Papa Serge always doing the unexpected to simply selling out. Since Elena's review was as favorable as it was insightful, I was ready to believe it was his way of telling the world "You wanted clean? Here, let me show you how to do it right". Sort of flipping the bird in his very refined and ironic way.

But the latest news seem to be pointing to another, sadder direction. Have the Powers That Be at Shiseido, Uncle Serge's financial backer, started to put their foot down? Did they tell him to start making money, or else? Did they tell him that any new release must have a mass market appeal and smell shower fresh?

This is nothing but speculation of course, but my guess is that dear Uncle Serge is not going to have his art be dictated by bureaucrats and bean counters. As Elena has mentioned, he has hinted in the past that might go do something completely different. We've always known that perfume is not his be all and end all and he can always have Chris Sheldrake whip for him a special batch of extra strength MKK. It's us who are losing here big time and might be left with nothing but this.

Photos of Uncle Serge: luxuryculture.com

Serge Lutens- Un Bois Sepia

Un Bois Sepia is an odd one in Serge Lutens (sort of) exclusive/non-export* collection. Supposedly part of the Bois series, the spawn of Feminite du Bois, which are all variations on the original fruity-cedar theme, but I can't find an official confirmation for that (the official Serge Lutens website has gone from bad to worse). If my nose is to be believed, Un Bois Sepia is not more a part of the Bois series than Un Bois Vanille or Miel de Bois. It's quite different than anything else in that group and doesn't seem to find its place among the other Lutens creations, either.

Now, as far as I understand, Un Bois Sepia was reformulated approximately two years ago. I think it used to be darker and might have had a touch of moss somewhere in its green structure. I have a travel size atomizer (15 ml?) which I got at Bergdorf Goodman with my full bottle of Bois et Fruits a couple of years ago. This is the newer juice which feels a bit weak and has a more generic green opening.

The top notes make Un Bois Sepia appear like a somewhat classic male cologne. Something green, sheer vetiver, wood and just a little dirt, which on a bad day doesn't agree with my skin. It's the patchouli, I think, which is different than the rich chocolaty patch of Borneo. This one is not as complex and reminds me of the patchouli used in several mainstream fragrances such as Prada (the original women's version) and even Calvin Klein Euphoria without all the icky synthetic fruit. Un Bois Sepia is better, however, and on a good skin chemistry day it actually dries down to a very pleasant dry wood scent. Generally speaking, it usually smells better on my husband and I like it best as something that remains on my scarves or jackets. Still, it's easy enough to wear in a non-nonsense kind of way, even if I don't think it's quite worth the $200 price tag.

*As a Serge Lutens non-export, Un Bois Sepia was originally only available in a bell jar from the Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido in Paris (they sell online and ship in Europe). A couple of years ago, Uncle Serge began releasing some of the non-exports (Bois Violette, Bois et Fruits, Santal de Mysore and Un Bois Sepia) in the regular rectangular atomizer- first, exclusively at Bergdorf in NYC, later adding a few more doors, such as Luckyscent/Scent Bar in L.A., Aedes in NYC and Beauty Habit. The price of those bottles is $200. Don't confuse the limited edition/distribution of the above with the yearly release of one non-export in a regular bottle (with a black label, $140) that usually makes its first appearance at Barneys. This year we were graced with MKK, last year it was Borneo and the year before (if I'm not mistaken)- Fumerie Turque. Then there are Chergui and Chene which seem to have been added to the export line permanently (the latter has also been obviously reformulated in the last year or so).

Samples of Un Bois Sepia (and the rest of the Serge Lutens, export and not) are available from The Perfumed Court. The Posh Peasant also offers most of the line, but currently not this particular one.

Art: Tree O by Robert Cook

Serge Lutens- Un Bois Sepia

Un Bois Sepia is an odd one in Serge Lutens (sort of) exclusive/non-export* collection. Supposedly part of the Bois series, the spawn of Feminite du Bois, which are all variations on the original fruity-cedar theme, but I can't find an official confirmation for that (the official Serge Lutens website has gone from bad to worse). If my nose is to be believed, Un Bois Sepia is not more a part of the Bois series than Un Bois Vanille or Miel de Bois. It's quite different than anything else in that group and doesn't seem to find its place among the other Lutens creations, either.

Now, as far as I understand, Un Bois Sepia was reformulated approximately two years ago. I think it used to be darker and might have had a touch of moss somewhere in its green structure. I have a travel size atomizer (15 ml?) which I got at Bergdorf Goodman with my full bottle of Bois et Fruits a couple of years ago. This is the newer juice which feels a bit weak and has a more generic green opening.

The top notes make Un Bois Sepia appear like a somewhat classic male cologne. Something green, sheer vetiver, wood and just a little dirt, which on a bad day doesn't agree with my skin. It's the patchouli, I think, which is different than the rich chocolaty patch of Borneo. This one is not as complex and reminds me of the patchouli used in several mainstream fragrances such as Prada (the original women's version) and even Calvin Klein Euphoria without all the icky synthetic fruit. Un Bois Sepia is better, however, and on a good skin chemistry day it actually dries down to a very pleasant dry wood scent. Generally speaking, it usually smells better on my husband and I like it best as something that remains on my scarves or jackets. Still, it's easy enough to wear in a non-nonsense kind of way, even if I don't think it's quite worth the $200 price tag.

*As a Serge Lutens non-export, Un Bois Sepia was originally only available in a bell jar from the Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido in Paris (they sell online and ship in Europe). A couple of years ago, Uncle Serge began releasing some of the non-exports (Bois Violette, Bois et Fruits, Santal de Mysore and Un Bois Sepia) in the regular rectangular atomizer- first, exclusively at Bergdorf in NYC, later adding a few more doors, such as Luckyscent/Scent Bar in L.A., Aedes in NYC and Beauty Habit. The price of those bottles is $200. Don't confuse the limited edition/distribution of the above with the yearly release of one non-export in a regular bottle (with a black label, $140) that usually makes its first appearance at Barneys. This year we were graced with MKK, last year it was Borneo and the year before (if I'm not mistaken)- Fumerie Turque. Then there are Chergui and Chene which seem to have been added to the export line permanently (the latter has also been obviously reformulated in the last year or so).

Samples of Un Bois Sepia (and the rest of the Serge Lutens, export and not) are available from The Perfumed Court. The Posh Peasant also offers most of the line, but currently not this particular one.

Art: Tree O by Robert Cook

Serge Lutens- Un Bois Sepia

Un Bois Sepia is an odd one in Serge Lutens (sort of) exclusive/non-export* collection. Supposedly part of the Bois series, the spawn of Feminite du Bois, which are all variations on the original fruity-cedar theme, but I can't find an official confirmation for that (the official Serge Lutens website has gone from bad to worse). If my nose is to be believed, Un Bois Sepia is not more a part of the Bois series than Un Bois Vanille or Miel de Bois. It's quite different than anything else in that group and doesn't seem to find its place among the other Lutens creations, either.

Now, as far as I understand, Un Bois Sepia was reformulated approximately two years ago. I think it used to be darker and might have had a touch of moss somewhere in its green structure. I have a travel size atomizer (15 ml?) which I got at Bergdorf Goodman with my full bottle of Bois et Fruits a couple of years ago. This is the newer juice which feels a bit weak and has a more generic green opening.

The top notes make Un Bois Sepia appear like a somewhat classic male cologne. Something green, sheer vetiver, wood and just a little dirt, which on a bad day doesn't agree with my skin. It's the patchouli, I think, which is different than the rich chocolaty patch of Borneo. This one is not as complex and reminds me of the patchouli used in several mainstream fragrances such as Prada (the original women's version) and even Calvin Klein Euphoria without all the icky synthetic fruit. Un Bois Sepia is better, however, and on a good skin chemistry day it actually dries down to a very pleasant dry wood scent. Generally speaking, it usually smells better on my husband and I like it best as something that remains on my scarves or jackets. Still, it's easy enough to wear in a non-nonsense kind of way, even if I don't think it's quite worth the $200 price tag.

*As a Serge Lutens non-export, Un Bois Sepia was originally only available in a bell jar from the Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido in Paris (they sell online and ship in Europe). A couple of years ago, Uncle Serge began releasing some of the non-exports (Bois Violette, Bois et Fruits, Santal de Mysore and Un Bois Sepia) in the regular rectangular atomizer- first, exclusively at Bergdorf in NYC, later adding a few more doors, such as Luckyscent/Scent Bar in L.A., Aedes in NYC and Beauty Habit. The price of those bottles is $200. Don't confuse the limited edition/distribution of the above with the yearly release of one non-export in a regular bottle (with a black label, $140) that usually makes its first appearance at Barneys. This year we were graced with MKK, last year it was Borneo and the year before (if I'm not mistaken)- Fumerie Turque. Then there are Chergui and Chene which seem to have been added to the export line permanently (the latter has also been obviously reformulated in the last year or so).

Samples of Un Bois Sepia (and the rest of the Serge Lutens, export and not) are available from The Perfumed Court. The Posh Peasant also offers most of the line, but currently not this particular one.

Art: Tree O by Robert Cook

Serge Lutens Gris Clair

I didn't get Gris Clair the first couple of times I tried it shortly after it came out in 2006. The weird burnt lavender was interesting, for sure, but it produced coldness instead of warm embers, and made the air around me move instead of developing on my skin. Only after I passed that first original sample to my husband and smelled it on him, did I start to understand what it was supposed to be, to do and to feel.

Gris Clair is about open air that has remnants of yesterday's smoke in it. A lavender field after harvest, a day that starts off cool and gray but eventually warms up and you can smell the earth baking. And laundry drying on a clothes line outside, soaking up the breeze, the sun and transforms into sweetness when you bury your nose there in the late afternoon hours.

Gris Clair smells better on my husband, I'm fully aware of that. It was the first Lutens bottle I bought him. His skin makes it fully unfold and reveal a lot more than the simplified version that happens on me. Still, I like to wear it for the clean feeling (it's great on a hot and humid August day) and the comfort effect of sweetened lavender.

Gris Clair ($120, 1.7 oz) is part of Serge Lutens export line and available from all the usual suspects- Aedes, Bergdorf, Barneys, Scent Bar/Luckyscent.com and Beauty Habit.

Photo by Nina Leen from Life Magazine archives.

Serge Lutens Gris Clair

I didn't get Gris Clair the first couple of times I tried it shortly after it came out in 2006. The weird burnt lavender was interesting, for sure, but it produced coldness instead of warm embers, and made the air around me move instead of developing on my skin. Only after I passed that first original sample to my husband and smelled it on him, did I start to understand what it was supposed to be, to do and to feel.

Gris Clair is about open air that has remnants of yesterday's smoke in it. A lavender field after harvest, a day that starts off cool and gray but eventually warms up and you can smell the earth baking. And laundry drying on a clothes line outside, soaking up the breeze, the sun and transforms into sweetness when you bury your nose there in the late afternoon hours.

Gris Clair smells better on my husband, I'm fully aware of that. It was the first Lutens bottle I bought him. His skin makes it fully unfold and reveal a lot more than the simplified version that happens on me. Still, I like to wear it for the clean feeling (it's great on a hot and humid August day) and the comfort effect of sweetened lavender.

Gris Clair ($120, 1.7 oz) is part of Serge Lutens export line and available from all the usual suspects- Aedes, Bergdorf, Barneys, Scent Bar/Luckyscent.com and Beauty Habit.

Photo by Nina Leen from Life Magazine archives.