Sunday, September 14, 2008

Little Green Dress- Jean-Louis Scherrer Parfum



I love vintage chypers but they don't always love me back, leaving me with existential doubts about my skin, my nose and the freshness of the tested bottle. That's why finding one that works so perfectly for me as the classic Jean-Louis Scherrer is such a joy.

Scherrer is a green chypre in full glory. OsMoz lists the notes as-
top notes: Cassis, Hyacinth, Violet, Aldehydes
heart note: Tuberose, Rose, Gardenia, Carnation
base note: Sandal, Vetiver, Moss, Civet

Some of the notes above are making me raise an eyebrow, since for the life of me I can't detect violet or tuberose in the juice. I wouldn't put my money on gardenia, either. I could also swear there's galbanum somewhere in there, but it's not listed. My bottle is of the parfum, and what I get from it is a delicate spicy opening that quickly morphs into the green, dry base. The vetiver and oakmoss are very dominant, but not in an earthy or lush way. They are very crisp, very poised and elegant.

I love the classic, perfumy feel of this gem. It wasn't created to please focus groups that prefer "freshly showered" scents. It's the real thing, well-dressed and impeccably mannered, and if you are of a certain school of perfume lovers, also very sexy (and in a complete opposite of what "Very Sexy" means to the Victoria's Secret generation).

It's fabulous to wear on a chilly fall or winter day, but my personal perversion about letting some potent scents bloom in the heat, worked well for me this summer. It's not a sillage monster (at least not in extrait) and mostly stays close to the skin and lasts for hours, as most good vetivers do.

While the parfum has long been discontinued (I found mine sealed on eBay. Miracles do happen), the EDT is still around, and rumor has it that the demon of reformulation has not taken its soul just yet, though being so oakmossy you know its days are numbered. Almost every retailer, online and off has it in stock, and for a reasonable price. Definitely worth checking out.

top image: Morning Light by Henry Asencio, Vinings Gallery
bottle: mine

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