Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Ormonde Jayne Tolu


After yesterday's perfume ambivalence (not because Noir Epices isn't awesome, just the way it can make me feel), I wanted to write about a scent that is pure joy. And that is where an amber-wood-resin fragrance is needed.

Tolu by London-based house Ormonde Jayne is golden magic. The opening is a bit sharp and balsamic, and I'm always surprised how clearly I smell the juniper. It's uplifting with tinges of green herbs and you might be reminded of the chewy herbal top of Ambre Sultan. But Uncle Serge had a different direction for his amber, which soon becomes a wonderful incense fest. Tolu is rounder and softer, despite its big bones. From the perfume's heart till the late drydown (24 hours later), it's very smooth and well-blended. There's frankincense and wood, though the distinct Ormonde Jayne signature note isn't all that prominent here as far as my nose or skin chemistry can tell. There's also a mellow ambery sweetness. It's not straight up vanilla, but it's darker sibling, tonka bean, which smells to me a bit more raw.

From the moment Tolu settles on my skin I feel ready to go. It's like an elegant cashmere cape, unusual enough among conventional trench coats, more feminine and very alluring. I've been draining samples and now that the weather is about to turn (so what if tomorrow's temperatures are in the mid 80s?), I'm ready for a bottle. And maybe some of the body products. The idea of soaking in Tolu bathing oil is deliciously appealing.

Ormonde Jayne perfumes (£68.00 for 50ml EDP, and now also available in 4 x 10ml vials travel purse sprays for £54.00, which is a wonderful thing) can be purchased at the London boutique or online from ormondejayne.com. Thankfully, they ship internationally.

Art: Birch by Maya Eventov

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