Thursday, July 23, 2009

Jean Patou Ma Liberte - The Lost Perfumes






Ma Liberte from Jean Patou was launched in 1987, a year that saw Glenn Close boil a bunny, Jon Bon Jovi livin' on a prayer, Bono still not finding what he was looking for, and the major events in my 17 year old world were acquiring and losing my first boyfriend and lamenting the disbanding of my beloved Smiths.

Other perfumes from that year include my long time favorites Panthere de Cartier and Tiffany, LouLou by Cacharel which my sister used to fumigate her bedroom, the classic elevator clearer Passion from Elizabeth Taylor and 66 others, most, just like Ma Liberté, are now discontinued.

If it were launched today (probably not by the fallen house of Patou, now part of Proctor & Gamble's toothpaste empire), Ma Liberté could have easily been a unisex niche scent. It completely lacks the shoulder pads or any of the characteristics of that decade and there's no way you'd imagine Nancy Reagan wearing it.

Ma Liberté has an elegant modern feel and a perfect balance of a crisp, almost light top and a warm, slightly dirty base. I get a lot of lavender in the opening, and something green and citrusy. The former stays on while the latter fades as the spicy, somewhat abstract floral notes make their soft entrance. But most of the perfume and what makes the lengthy drydown is a gorgeous leather-tobacco note that stays on forever. I get 10-12 hours of this perfumes (my bottle is the EdP), and while its sillage is restrained, there's no mistaking it in your very personal space.

It's this drydown that makes Ma Liberté both unisex and unique. The leather is soft and the tobacco warm, dry and inviting. It gives a rich and sophisticated feeling, as though you're in the know of a secret or two, but never ever (and I've worn it on a couple of really hot days this month) gets vulgar.

Just another reason to sigh about Jean Patou's fading glory.

Ma Liberté by Jean Patou was officially discontinued a few years ago. Bottles of the EDT are still available online for around $40. I don't know how much they differ than the EDP, which is what I reviewed here. The higher concentrations pop from time to time on various sites like eBay and Basenotes.



Top photo: an 1987 cover of French Vogue, featuring the amazing Christie Turlington
Bottle and Giselle: both photos are mine

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